- Hey team, Andre from High Performance Academy,
welcome along to another one of our webinars where we're going to be diving this time into
the selection of Autosport connectors and we quite often get asked about this because I know
a lot of people do get confused and while the price point of an Autosport connector is one thing to
put people off purchasing them and using them, first of all actually physically knowing what you
need when you're speccing one of these connectors, this on face value
does seem somewhat
terrifying and while I'm not going to be able to show you the numbers on our camera, on the side
of every Autosport connector, you're going to see a range of numbers that does on face value
look a little bit daunting. This one is actually not an Autosport, it's a
Souriau one but it's 8STA6-22-55PN. What the hell does that all mean? And if you don't understand this, it's obviously
going to be pretty difficult to decide what is going to be right for your application. I'm just g
oing to go through this process really
briefly here and what we'll do is we'll start by heading across to my laptop screen. Now I did actually go through this a couple of
weeks back on a different angle so some of you may have seen this if you are regular followers
but this is the harness planning design for the wiring harness that's going into our Toyota FJ40
Landcruiser and on this particular page here what we've done is listed out everything on the
MoTeC M170 ECU that I am using here. So for
example here we've got the injector
outputs. And it's not just the injector outputs, so
obviously for a V8 we've got 8 of these running sequential injection but you can see directly
below that I've also listed that I'm going to provide two 12V feeds from the power distribution
module that will go along with these injectors. To function an injector we need a power
supply to one side of the injector and then the ECU provides an earth to the other so
this is everything that we're actually going
to need to make the engine operate and for
example here if we look at our throttle position sensor, this actually goes to the drive
by wire throttle body not the accelerator pedal. We've got 4 wires or 4 conductors that need to
go there, we've got a 5 volt we've got a 0 volt, we've got TPS 1 and TPS 2 or main and tracking
as it's called in the MoTeC lingo, these are wired to AV1 and AV2 so why this is important is
it's not just a case of knowing we need a throttle position sensor. It's just
physically listing out, we're also going
to need a 5 volt sensor supply and we're going to need a sensor 0 volt to go along with that,
that's the 3 wires that a normal conventional throttle position sensor is going to need. So once we've got that full list, and I'll just
scroll down a little bit, you can see it is fairly extensive, we've got a fair bit going on. Now we can jump across to our next design
planner here which is where we've got a little bit more detail. So here I've actually defin
ed the connector that we
are going to be using as well as the boot that's going to go over this so this is an Autosport
connector, it is an AS616-26SN. OK so that, we'll go through how I've got to
that conclusion but what we can see here is we've listed out everything and if we go
down to the very bottom, we can see that we've got 79 terminals, 79 positions on this
connector so this is obviously the first place we need to start. The last sheet that we looked at, basically once
we've got to the e
nd of that, we're going to know everything that's going to go through
the bulkhead connector for example and then we can decide based on that, how many conductors
are going to need to pass through and then once we know that, that's our first and primary driver
in what we're going to need. In this case, I know that we need 79, I'm actually
using every single one of them and there was a little bit of juggling to get that to work. So first of all, OK I know I need to have 79
positions. Now I have w
orked this around the connector
that is available so I already knew that so that's OK, you're not going to know to start with but
once you've got that number we can then compare this to the TE Connectivity manual which
we'll look at in just a second and figure out what's likely to actually work for our application. The other thing that's really important here is
the conductor size so that's really going to be the next driver and if we scroll through this
again you can see that all of my conducto
rs here are 22 gauge so I'm using a little bit of a
variety of colours but irrespective of the colour, they are all 22 gauge. How have I made this decision? Well that's kind of been made for us because
we are using a MoTeC M170 ECU. The M170 uses 22 gauge or size 22 contacts so
we're kind of stuck with that but that makes sense, that's basically what I'd use to make
most wiring harnesses from anyway. 22 gauge, you might be thinking, sounds a little
bit light for some of the higher current draw a
pplications. There's nothing really too scary in this
application that would exceed the 6 or so amps that we can get through a size 22 or
22 gauge contact. But if you needed to, and we do have 1
application, I'll just see if I can find it here and scroll down, we're actually running the
starter solenoid wiring through this. It's not controller by the ECU but it's just a
nice way of getting that neatly through the firewall and a started solenoid can draw 12
to maybe 15 amps. So obviously if we
can only handle 6 amps,
the way we deal with this is we'd just double or in this case triple them up so that's the
solution we use to get around that. OK so we know we need 79 positions there
and let's go to our TE Connectivity manual. So if you just Google Autosport catalogue or
TE Connectivity Autosport catalog, you're going to get to this catalog. It is pretty extensive, it covers all of their
motorsport product, I'll just scroll back up to the top so you can see what it looks like. Deuts
ch Autosport interconnection solutions,
if you want to be super specific. And we're not going to focus on the whole
of it, there's a huge amount of information in here that is really valuable of course if you
are trying to spec up these connectors but we'll go through to page 12 which is for the
AS range which is what we are using. And here we've got the connection, contact
arrangement so that's this over here on the right hand side. So what we need to do basically is figure out
what is going to
work for our application and we can see that there's a variety of different
styles here dependent on what you're actually wanting to fit through, what size of contact or
what size of conductor you are using and the different contact arrangement so for example,
this one here in a size 20 shell, this arrangement will give us 16, gauge 16 conductors so that's
obviously for something that's going to be drawing a little bit more current. So basically by going through here, you're going
to be able to
decide what contact arrangement and size of shell you're going to need for your
particular application and again if I get our connector, so yeah this is an AS620-35SN. So if we go and look at that, that is this one
here so the numbers here in particular, 20-35, so the 20 is the shell size so basically
the outside diameter of the shell steps up. So obviously there's much smaller ones available
like this little guy here, they go much bigger than this as well so obviously the bigger the
actual she
ll size is, the more potential we've got for a higher contact count inside of that, higher
position count inside of that so that's the first thing, to get 79 positions in this connector, we're
going to need to go to the size 20 shell so that's the first part there. And then the contact arrangement, because we
can see that these two up here as well as these two here, these are all size 20 shells but with
different contact arrangements depending on again what we're trying to get through. So it's
the 20-35 that we need so that's some
of the numbers on this. But again the first number that's there is AS
so that's the series and then we have A6. So this defines what style of connector that
we're dealing with. So in this case 6 is a free plug so let's see
what that actually means. I'll just get rid of that and we'll scroll down. Alright so type 6, just mentioned is a 6,
is a plug. So that's important because this is the part
that actually does the half twist to engage so we obviously nee
d a plug and the other
side needs to be a receptacle so for the two to go together, we need 1 to be a type 6 and then
we need another one to be a type 1 or in some cases we might use a type 0. The type 1 is an in line receptacle so as we
can see from the drawing here, we've got no flange so this is in line, this would be if we
didn't want to actually mount it, the other option here is our type 0 and that gives us a
2 bolt flange which we can see here. So this is ideal obviously if we are mount
ing
to a firewall, so this is the other half of our connector for our FJ40, is the type 0. OK so now we know what the 6 and the 20
and the 35 in this part number, again it was an AS620-35, all starting to make a bit of sense
hopefully, and we can see where those numbers come from. The other part is S and N and we need to understand
what those mean. So S stands for socket. P would be the other option which stands for pin
and again just like we need a plug and we need a receptacle to mate two toge
ther, we also need
one half to be a male pin and we need the other side to be a female socket. If we've got the two halves both with pins or
both with sockets, they're not going to go together and that's an easy mistake to make
as well so that's what the P or the S means and then finally we've got the N on the end of it which
just stands for the keywaying or keying and that's defined by, probably a little bit hard to see on
this one but you can see we've got a red band which is the typical defau
lt colouring that we
see with these Autosport connectors, that is the N keying. And we want to make sure that particularly
if we've got connectors that are close together, we want to make sure that we are using
different keying so that it's not possible to mix them up. So I scroll down here and this is basically how
this all works, just everything I've said. So AS stands for our range, in this case the
normal Autosport. The next one there is a 0, a 1, a 2 or a 6, 8 or 9
but we're not really us
ing 8 or 9s, they're caps. So 0, 1, 2 or 6 and then we've got our shell
size is our next number then our dash then our contact arrangement, then we've got our
insert type, whether it's a pin or a socket and then finally our shell keyways. We've got N as I mentioned is red,
that's the standard unless we want something else, that's what we're going to
end up with typically. Then we've got yellow, green, blue, orange
and violet if you really want to get fancy and colour code your wiring connectors
. So again not that scary once you actually know
what you are looking at. Now there's a lot of other information in here
as well that you are going to need. The next question that normally comes up
from our members when they've asked this question and then they know when to specify an
Autosport connector is great, what tooling do I use in order to crimp these? So the Daniels Manufacturing Corp, DMC
crimp tools, basically the go to standard for crimping these and these come with positioners
tho
ugh and the positioner is important. As its name implies, it positions the pin or the
socket so that the crimp is going to be applied in the correct location. Also gives you information on that about what
setting to use on the crimp tool as well. So if we jump back across to my laptop
screen, you can see we've got contacts and tooling part numbers. So here we've got our contact size, 16 gauge,
20 gauge and 22 gauge. Then we've got the actual part number for the
socket or pin. Then if we come ac
ross, we've got the insertion
and removal tool but these come with the connectors anyway. Then we've got the crimp tool that we should
be using as well as the positioner for the socket or the pin so using this manual, it is actually
really easy going to first of all, specify a connector that's going to suit what you are
trying to do and then understand what tooling that you're going to need in order
to actually properly crimp it. Not that scary so hopefully with this
information it will allow
a few more people to go and use these connectors. If you liked that video
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