- Hey there, Joey here for School of Motion,
and in this lesson, we'll be creating a very cool Claymation look in Cinema 4D. I originally started messing around with this
look to help out my good buddy, Kyle Predki, for a project that he was working on. He needed to achieve a Claymation look for
some characters, and this is what we came up with. And now, I'm gonna pass along what we learned
about creating this look to you. By the end of this lesson, you'll be able
to texture and animate somethin
g that looks like clay, right out of Cinema 4D. Pretty cool, right? Don't forget to sign up for our free student
account, so you can grab the project files from this lesson. As well as assets from any other lesson on
this site. And now, let's jump in. So, here we are, I have cinema scene set up. And I don't wanna walk you guys through the
whole process 'cause it would take too long. I just kinda wanna show you guys the Claymation
part of it. But, just to show you guys what's in the scene,
I have
a camera. I'm using the physical renderer for this scene,
because I want to feel realistic and I want it to have Global Illumination and Ambient
Occlusion, and depth of field and things like that, and the physical rendered is much, much
faster at those things than the standard renderer. Also in this scene, I have a lighting set-up. These are just omni lights with area shadows,
and I kind of have a three-point lighting set-up here. And then this guy, that says "Psyche," this
is actually a plug-i
n that I have developed to make seamless backgrounds. Which is something that we have to do constantly
at Toil, and there's many ways to do it. But what I did was sort of create a rig to
give you tons of options. So, you can pick color, you can add gradients,
you can have a lot of options with the way the floor looks. If you look over here, if I do a quick render,
you'll see that I have a pretty standard white Psyche environment. The lights are reflecting onto it. And I've kinda put this noisy t
exture on it,
just to kinda give it a little bit of a dirty look. But there's a million options with Psyche
and I will be releasing it shortly. So, watch out for that. Let's get started with the Claymation look. So, what I wanna do is create a really simple
animation, where we have a ball and it sort of drops into frame and splits into two more
balls. And it looks kinda like clay. So, there's a few keys to the Claymation look,
and it doesn't just have to be Claymation. It could just be any kind
of stop motion. But, after having done a few stop motion projects,
it's clear to me that there's a few things that specifically give stop motion that look. One of the things is animating at a slower
frame rate than you normally do. Normally, we work at 24 frames a second or
30 frames a second. Or, if you're in Europe or somewhere else
it might be 25 frames a second. For stop motion, we use 12 frames a second. So, half the number. I'm gonna set my... I'm gonna hit 'Command + D' and I'm gonna
set
the frames per second, 12. And I'm gonna go to my render settings and
I'm gonna set the frame rate to 12 here as well. Alright, so that's step one. Step two is; instead of animating everything
using key frames that Cinema will automatically interpolate for you, which is gonna give you
a really smooth motion, you're better off using a lot of key frames and trying to hand
animate every single frame. Because, in real stop motion, that's what
you have to do. Unless you're some amazing stop motion ar
tist,
You're gonna have a lot of little imperfections in your movement. And this is gonna give it a hand-made look,
that is kinda of inherent in stop motion. The last part is the texture, which I'll spend
some time explaining. So, why don't we just start out by making
a sphere, alright? And I'm just gonna lift it up, so it's kinda
resting on the floor. And if I render this, you'll see that on the
surface, with some lighting, it doesn't look like clay at all. It's very smooth. It's too perfect, a
nd that's the main thing
that you have to kinda figure out. When you're trying to come up with a material
or a shade that looks organic and looks real, a lot of times what you're really doing is
making it look less perfect. Kinda beating it up a little bit. So, let me show you guys this shader here
that I've already made. When I render it, you'll see that it does...
a little bit, it kinda adds a little bit of bumpiness and noise to this sphere. But, what I need to do is actually make the
sphere
editable, because this texture has a Displacement channel. Displacement channels do not work on objects
that have not been made editable. So, I'm gonna hit "C," make the sphere editable. Now, when I render this, it's gonna look a
lot different. So, you can see, now it's kinda of getting
a little bit irregular. And it almost looks like someone's kind of
mushed it. It's not a perfect sphere anymore. And, just to amplify that, let me go into
the Displacement channel here, and I can up the height to
10 centimeters. So, it'll probably look funky but it'll show
you even more that this sphere is being totally squished and turned into a completely different
shape, when you render. So, we have this nice sphere that we can animate
with, but when we render, it's kinda turned into this other thing. So, what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna show
you how I created this texture. And, were gonna try to dial in a look, and
then I'm gonna show you how to animate it. Let's take this texture tag off. So, whe
n you... Double click Make a New Texture. When you work with textures in Cinema, it's
helpful to understand what all the Texture channels do. So, let's call this texture "Clay 2." Because, once you really understand what these
channels are used for, with some experimentation you can pretty much get close to any real
texture. There are some textures that you may need
V-Ray for. You may need a plug in, or you may need someone
who really knows what they're doing to kind of help you out. A lot of ti
mes, all you have to do is think
about surface properties to help you with these channels. So, let's start with the Color channel. The Color channel is pretty obvious. It dictates the color of the object. I was kind of going for a "Silly Putty" look. So, I picked this pink color. Now, let's apply this, so we can see what's
going on. So, that's step one, Specular is one that
I see a lot of people have trouble with. Specular is basically like the glossiness
or shininess of a surface. Color is... i
n other 3D packages it would
be considered the Diffuse channel. It's, sort of, the overall lighting. But, Specular is sort of like the hot spots
you get when you see a light sort of reflected in a shiny surface. There's two main options for Specular; there's
width and height. So, Height, and you can see this little preview
here, it actually shows you pretty good what's goin' on. Height is, sort of, the intensity of this
hot spot. And you can even see up here, on our model,
that as I tweak the he
ight, it changes a little bit in the preview. And then the width is, sort of, how much that
hot spot spreads out over the surface, okay? So, if you think about clay or Silly Putty,
it's a little bit glossy, just a tiny bit. But, not very much. It's kind of like a big matte surface with
a tiny bit of glossiness. So, the width of your specular might be pretty
big, but the height's gonna be very, very small. Okay, and let's just render what we have,
just so we can kinda see where we are. So, this s
ort of looks like clay a little
bit. It's kind of got this matte surface and the
lighting's definitely helping, and, just so you guys know, I don't have Ambient Occlusion
or GI turned on yet, or depth of field, because that's something you save until you're rendering
because the renders will take much longer as we're working here. So, this specular feels pretty good to me. Now, if we were trying to make this feel metallic,
like a metal ball, or if it was something shiny, like a marble, then you
would need
probably a thinner width but a bigger height, so you get more of a sharp, hard surface look. So, those are the two... Those are color and specular. So, now let's kind of go through the rest
of these. So, Luminance. If we turn Luminance on, by default, it turns
this white. Luminance is a channel that is not affected
by light. Okay? So, if I make this ball have pink in the Luminance
channel and I render this, you'll see that it almost appears to be glowing. And, if I turn the Specular c
hannel off, and
the Color channel off, and use luminance, there's no shading at all, it's just a pink
ball. So, the Luminance channel can be used for
a few different things. But, what I like to use it for sometimes,
it's kinda a cheap way of simulating subsurface scattering. And subsurface scattering is kind of this
technical thing that happens. Think of if you hold a leaf up to the sun,
you kinda see the sun through it. Certain kind of soft materials actually absorb
some of the light, and it ki
nda wraps around and you see it on the other side of the object. You can simulate that in Cinema 4D, but it
takes a lot of render time. So, any easy way just to, kind of, flatten
things out and simulate that a little bit, is to have the color and the Luminance channel
have the same texture or the same color in them. And then, in the Luminance channel, you can
just adjust the brightness. So, at zero, it looks the same as with just
the Color channel. At 50%, we're getting some shading, but you
can
see it's kinda washed it out a little bit. So, I'm just gonna keep that at like 10. What it's basically doing, is it's just gonna
brighten up these dark areas a little bit. I'm gonna go up to 20 and see what that looks
like. It's just kinda flattening it out a little
bit more, kinda like clay would be. So, that's the Luminance channel. Then, you've got the Reflection channel. Which, by default, in cinema 4D that allows
you to see the reflections of other objects in an object. Silly Putty or cla
y is not reflective at all,
so we don't need that channel. Fog, normal, glow, these are ones that I don't
use very often. Diffusion is a channel that can help you make
parts of this clay shinier than others or duller than others. We may end up using that, I'm not sure yet. Transparency is pretty obvious, Environment
is sort of like the Reflection channel. It actually let's you have global reflections
in every object, based on an HDRI or another image. The Bump Map is interesting, and we are gonn
a
use that. So, when we start using that, I'll explain
what it does. An Alpha channel is used to cut out parts
of an object with a matte. Specular color works with the Specular channel,
and you can change the color of these highlights that are falling onto this object if you want
to. We don't need to, in this case. Now, displacement is the key to this whole
"clay" thing. So, let me show what the Displacement channel
does. If we add a Displacement channel, first we
need to assign a texture to tha
t channel. What the Displacement channel does, is it
literally reshapes the geometry of the object, when you render. What I usually use in the Displacement channel
is noise. If I just render this, you'll see it's gonna
look really weird. Let me crank this up, so you can really see
what's going on. So, you see how it's kinda made a mess out
of this thing. By default, what it's doing is it's taking
all of the points of this sphere and moving them out from the object, based on this noise
right here
. Things that are black don't really move. Things that are white move outward. However, it's kind of limited by the number
of points in the object. So, it's not very smooth. If you click this button right here, sub polygon
displacement, and now we render... And it's gonna take much longer now, but you'll
see it actually creates new geometry and renders. So, you can get some really funky results
with this. And, what's great about this, is if you have
this object as a model, it would have a ton of
polygons. It would be kinda a pain to work with. But instead, you have this sphere. And when you render it, it kind of looks like
what you want it to look like. It's a nice way to work and you can get a
lot of cool results without a lot of processor while you're working. So, what I wanna first use this Noise channel
for, is I wanna just have it generally mush this sphere out of shape a little bit. We can use just your normal noise for this,
but obviously, right now, this noise is too small. Eve
n if I take the height way down, let's
say to 20 or something, you'll see that it's just too... There's little pits in it. What I need is for it to look like a big fist
took it and squeezed it, and it just didn't quite make a perfect circle. So, what I'm gonna do is go into this noise
share, and I'm gonna turn the global scale up. Let's try 500. That basically scales the noise up over all. You can see that now we're kinda gettin' this
cool result. Now, we're getting a lot of these little faucets
here because of the faces of this sphere. So, what we need to do is turn on round geometry. Now, you'll get a smoother result. This kinda looks like a lump of Silly Putty,
and you're kinda there. But, it's still very, very smooth, okay? This may be a little harsh, we may not really
need that much displacement. Now we're gettin' somewhere, this is kinda
like a little lumpy ball of clay. The next thing I wanted to do was, in addition
to this overall lumpiness, I wanted some little divots and groo
ves in it. The Silly Putty's in different pieces and
you squish 'em back together, but there's these seams and these weird little bits. What I wanna do is have some different noise
affecting this. This is where the layer shader comes in. If you never used it, it's super duper powerful. It's sort of like a little mini Photoshop
inside of Cinema. The way it works is this; we already have
a noise shader in our Texture channel here, so, since that's already in there, if I click
this arrow, and I go
up to layer and click that, you'll see now it's changed the noise
shader into a layer shader. If you click that, you can see what we have
now, is our noise shader inside the layer shader. It sort of copies what you already had into
a layer shader, but now you can add more things to it. You can add effects, you can brighten, adjust
hue saturation, colorize things. But, you can also add more layers. So, let's say I wanna add another noise layer. Now I have two noise layers; The one that
I've scale
d up, and now I have another one. If I change this from normal to screen, I
can mix between the two and create kind of a mishmash of them. So, what I'm gonna do, is I'm gonna click
this little icon here, to go into the new Noise shader. Now, the default noise doesn't really look
the way I want. I'm kinda looking for something a little gritty,
almost like your finger nails kinda dug into the clay. When you're working on the noise shader, there's
a million options here. It can be a little confusin
g, but really,
the only one's we're really gonna be messing with are the type of noise, the global scale,
and then, down here, we're gonna adjust the brightness and contrast. All this other stuff can be useful, but, in
this case, you don't even have to worry about it. I wanna find a dirty looking noise, so, over
here you can see, if you click on this noise, there's a lot of different noises and you
won't know what they are. However, if you click this little arrow that
they've hidden over here, y
ou get this nice little browser that shows you what they look
like. They're tiny little thumbnails, but once you
click 'em, it kinda gives you a preview up here. So, I clicked on this guy down here, which
is called "Poxo," and I'd love to know where these names came from. Because there's some really silly ones. Gaseous, come on. Poxo kinda looks a little bit dirty, and what
it kinda looks like to me, is black dirt with little white specs in it, which is kinda cool. So, what I'm gonna do, is I'm
gonna hit this
back arrow here, to go back to the layer shader. And I'm gonna set this to screen. And you can see that, if I adjust the opacity,
I'm bringing those little white flecks up along with my noise. So, if I render this now, you'll see that
I've got my overall "smushed" effect. But, now I've also got all these little bumps
in it, and those are way too heavy. So, I'm gonna turn those way down. And I think they might also be a little big. I may want them to be a little bit smaller. So, I'
m gonna go into this Noise channel,
I'm gonna change the global scale to 50. Alright, now we're getting' somewhere. And these bumps, I don't know, it's not quite
looking like I wanted. I'm gonna look for a different shader. Maybe the specs are a little much. Maybe we need things that are a little bit
more connected to each other. So, I'm gonna try this Buya one. That is great, that it's called Buya. That's not too bad, let me look at one more
and see if I like anything better than that. What abo
ut this one? This one's funny, wavy turbulence. That's kinda interesting, see, that feels
a little bit better to me. I just need to tone it down a little bit. It almost feels like someone was touching
the clay, or they rolled it on a surface and it kinda picked up the properties of that
surface. So, now I can actually just adjust the influence
of this noise, okay? So, now we're getting kind of a clay texture. Let's say I also wanted to find something
that maybe felt almost like finger prints or
something. I'll click shader again, add another noise
shader. And go in and try to find something that's
a little bit wavy like fingerprints. There's a few different ones. This one, Verona, it doesn't really look like
fingerprints. But, if we manipulate it, it might feel like
fingerprints overlapping. Why don't we try that? Because what
you'll see when I render this, the white areas come out of the clay, right? And the black areas stay where they are. So, what I actually want is these wavy whit
e
parts to be indented into the clay. So, what I'm gonna do is actually swap Color
1 and Color 2. I'm gonna set Color 1 to white, Color 2 to
black. So, now the wavy parts a white. Then I'm gonna come here, set this to screen,
and I'm gonna turn this way down. Let's see where we're gettin' now. Okay, so you can see we're mixing all of these
things. We're getting this really interesting noise. As I turn up this new one, I can see that
the scale of it feels way too small. So, I'm gonna turn this sc
ale up to 500, see
what that does for me. Okay, just adds a little bit more of a "ridginess"
to it. And this feels pretty good. So, in terms of the overall shape, I'm happy
with what the Displacement channel's doing. Now, the surface still feels very, very sooth. One thing I like to do if I use the Displacement
channel is just copy the channel, and I just click this little arrow, next to layer, to
copy that. And it copies the whole layer set-up. If I come to basic and now turn on the Bump
channe
l, and click this arrow and hit "paste channel," It pastes the whole set-up into
the Bump channel. What the Bump channel does, is it affects
the brightness of the surface, based on a gradient. It's basically simulating the Displacement
channel, but it doesn't actually change the geometry at all. So, it renders a lot faster, and a lot of
times that's all you need, is a Bump channel. In our case, we really do wanna change the
shape of the object, so, use the Displacement channel. However, if you h
ave the same texture in the
displacement and the bump, it sort of amplifies the light on pieces where the displacement
is expanding the object and it keeps them a little bit darker where they're not being
expanded. If we render this now, with the Displacement
and the Bump channel, it just gives us a little bit more contrast. You can kinda see, over here, you're startin'
to get some nice highlights here. If I crank this up a little bit, you'll see
it darkens this area a little bit, brightens this
area. What I wanna do in that Bump channel, is I
wanna lessen the influence of the big, overall noise. Because that's really manipulating the shape
of the object a lot. So, it's changing what the light's doing to
it. But, these little textures that we've added,
these could actually just help add a little bit of grit to the surface. You can see now it's sort of getting this
lumpier, dirty look. What I'm gonna do, actually, is I'm gonna
get rid of this fingerprint noise, here, and I'm gonna chang
e it to something that's a
little bit more grainy. Let's try this, this Luka, alright? And see what this looks like. And I'm gonna turn the strength of this bump
down because it's a little bit heavy. That's feelin' good, I may wanna scale down
these textures a little bit. They're feelin' a little bit big. That one's fine. This one I've turned all the way off. Let's check this. Okay, so this is pretty decent. It might be a little bit irregular, I could
keep messing with the Displacement channel a
nd get this perfect if I wanted to. But for now, I'm actually pretty happy with
this. So, now we have all of our channels that we're
gonna need. Just to see what happens, I'm gonna take the
Bump channel, and I'm gonna copy my setup there, and put it in the Diffusion channel. And I wanna show you guys what it does. If it looks cool, we'll keep it. And if it doesn't, we'll toss it. So, what is it does, is it keeps areas that
are white, and it keeps them shiny. Areas that are black, it kinda makes
them
dull. So, you can see it kinda has the effect of
making the object feel dirty a little bit. So, if I turn the brightness of this down
a little bit. There we go. When you have a texture in here, you actually
have to change the Mix strength. Let's change that down to 50, and see if it's
just gonna help us get a little bit... And even that's too heavy. We just want a little bit of grit on this
thing. I actually like that. It makes it feel like these grooves are actually
kinda blocking the ligh
t. Maybe they're a little dirty. And that feels pretty real. This will take a minute to render, but just
to show you guys, if I turn on Ambient Occlusion, turn on Indirect Illumination on the physical
renderer. As this is rendering, when you have pretty
detailed, really nuanced textures, and you have decent a lighting set-up, and then you
let the renderer use all of the tricks it has up it's sleeves, you can get a pretty
photo-realistic result. Without doing any compositing or anything,
and ther
e's also no depth of field on here. You look at that... I could nitpick some things, but I bet that
if you showed that to somebody and said "Look, I took a picture of a ball of Play Doh." They would believe that that was real, okay? So, now we're gonna use this as our texture. I'm gonna show you guys how to animate a quick
little animation. Then we're gonna set it up to render and fire
off that render, and we're gonna check out what it looks like. We have our textures, we're happy with that. So,
what we're gonna animate is this sphere. What I thought would be cool is if it fell
into the frame and splatted outwards. And then split in to two balls. So, a pretty simple animation, but it'll give
you an idea of the work flow you can use. You can definitely go crazy with this technique,
and make full on Claymation movies, if you wanted to. In order to make this feel like stop motion,
we're gonna need to animate pretty much every frame. We can have Cinema help us every once in a
while. But to
get that imperfect look, we really
want to do as much of the work ourselves as possible. In order to do that, especially when we are
deforming the ball, we want to use Point Level Animation. Point Level Animation means we literally go
into point mode or polygon mode and we use a tool... By the way, I'm bringing this modeling menu
up by hitting "M" and then looking at the options it gives me and deciding I want the
brush, which has the "C" next to it. So, I hit "C" and it switches to the brush
t
ool. Literally coming in here and manipulating
this mesh with the brush tool. I want Cinema to put key frames on the actual
shape of the mesh. By default, Point Level Animation is turned
off. The way you turn it on is down here in your
standard layout. You see position, scale and rotation are on. This "P" is for parameter. These little dots here, these are for point
level. So, what you wanna do is turn this on, and
you wanna turn on automatic key framing. Then you need to actually add a point le
vel
animation track to your object in the timeline. Before we do that, why don't we first animate
the dropping of the ball, okay? When you're doing stop motion animation, and
this is one of the things that is really cool about it, is that it doesn't really let you
cheat very easily. You have to plan out your moves ahead of time. Now, in Cinema, the beauty is that we can
always go back and fix things real easily. In real stop motion, you can't do it very
easily. So, you really have to be precise
and think
about what you're doing when you're animating and use animation principles and things like
that. I want this to feel pretty quick and pretty
bouncy. I'm thinkin' this ball is gonna drop into
frame pretty fast. Like, this quick. If we're animating at 12 frames a second,
it's gonna fall probably in two frames, maybe three. Probably three, just so we can actually do
something here, in this tutorial. What we're gonna do, is we are going to start
with this ball out of frame. I'm gonna actua
lly put a protection tag on
this camera, because we are gonna have to switch between our editor camera and our actual
render camera quite a bit. I can see now, I wasn't actually looking through
my render camera. So, let's bring the ball back down and let's
line up this camera where we want it. So, now I'm going to put the protection tag
back on the camera, so we don't accidentally move it. If you've never used one of those, it's very
handy because now I can't move the camera. It literally won't
let me move it. But, if I click here and go to the editor
camera, I can move around. So, when I start modeling the ball and sculpting
it like clay, I can see what I'm doing. So, we're gonna start with the sphere up here,
out of frame. Alright? We're gonna set a key frame. So, then we're gonna go to the next frame. Here I'm gonna turn on automatic key frame. I want the ball to fall pretty far into the
frame. So, this is the floor. I don't want it to quite hit the floor yet,
okay? And maybe what w
e do is we just have it enter
the frame here. We'll go to the next frame, and it falls almost
all the way to the floor. Then on the next frame, it's on the floor. But, it's gonna be really smushed and flattened. So, if we just do a quick preview, that's
pretty quick. Splat. And we're gonna have to add some good sound
effects here too. You can see it feels a little jerky. It doesn't feel perfect because I kinda hand-did
those. Decided I want this to be fast, it's gonna
be a certain number of fram
es. The beauty of Cinema, though, is that you
can always change it. So, if I decide that this move to this move
feels a little too much, I can just come up here and fix it. Now, because this ball is moving fast at the
beginning, it should also be a little stretched out, vertically. Now, I could sculpt that, and that's probably
what I would do. But it would just take longer. So, in this case, I'm gonna just use the "Y"
scale. So, I'm gonna start on a frame where I can
tell... It should be like th
is, and it should be a
little bit smaller on "X" too. "Z" should match. Now, that's really elongated. It's pretty cartoony but it's funny. As it's falling, it's accelerating, so it's
a little bit, if we step backwards, it should be a little bit less elongated here. Then, as it hits, it's gonna totally flatten
out very quickly. So the "Y" is gonna flatten out like this,
and then the "X" is gonna be like this. Now that we've done that, we're gonna have
to move it down again 'cause now it's not on
the floor. So, now it is. So, what we've go so far is this kind of animation. Great. Now, what you could do at this point is go
into point level animation mode and start making this feel like someone hand did this. And we can even go in and tweak, and just
kinda mush around some things here, so it feels a little less perfect. I'm gonna switch my layout to animation, so
it's a little easier to work with. I'm going to take my sphere, drag it onto
my timeline. You can see I've got some position and
scale
key frames on there. So, with sphere selected, what I want to do
is say "create" and add a special track, PLA. Then, with PLA on, auto key framing on, I
can go to a frame like this, hit "M" and then "C" for brush. And I can mush some of these points around,
kinda mess it up a little. You can see it added key frame point level. So, I can do that same on this frame. Then, on this frame, I want it out of frame. When it lands here, What's gonna happen, is
it's gonna land and split into two ba
lls. The center is gonna kinda drop down, like
this. These ends are gonna split out like this. So, it's gonna start like this. Then, it's just gonna keep spreading out fairly
quickly. I think I wanna try and make it feel like
it splats and splits. It almost snaps back, it kinda hangs for a
second, like it's gonna return to normal shape. Then it pops into two different balls. So, it's gonna, basically, very quickly, splat. So, on the next frame here, this part's gonna
be a little lower. These par
ts are gonna be a little bit more
stretched out. You can see, I'm really not trying very hard
to make this perfect. I'm gonna scrub back and forth, a few frames
at a time. Just try and get this to feel good. That feels good, and we'll go to the next
frame. I should probably have the bottom of this
come up too. One thing I do want to be careful of, 'cause
what I'm noticing is that the bottom of this, it may not be intersecting the floor anymore
once I move these. So, I just need to make sure that
it's always
intersecting the floor. If I do a quick little preview of this, it's
feelin' pretty good. Splat. Splat! Now, it feels like it probably needs to come
out a little bit further there. You wanna start elongating these too, because
the mass of this clay is sort of splitting, here. Here's a good example of why Cinema is actually
a lot easier than Claymation. From this frame to this frame, feels like
a little bit of a big move. All I have to do is take this PLA, and move
it one frame. I wi
ll now get two frames, it will interpolate
that for me. As long as you don't do that very often, you
can get away with it. In stop motion, you would have to go back
and try and make this frame, and put it in the middle, and it's a pain. You really don't wanna have to do that. So, once I played it back, it actually felt
pretty good. Let's see here. I think I may actually want to get rid of
that frame. There we go, yeah. It needs to feel fast. So, it splits. Alright, now at this point, this move i
s gonna
start decelerating, because, basically, the tension wants to pull this back together. So, it starts to decelerate. It's still moving a little bit. It's gonna hang there for a second, but it
wants to pull back. And I think it'll probably hang for maybe
another frame or two. Really start to stretch, like it's reaching. Let's see what we got. I think I want it to be a little more extreme,
so, I might just realize that I'm having too many frames. There we go. I may wanna actually speed thing
s up after
I animate a couple of frames. So, let's have one more frame here, where
it starts to even... it almost starts to pull back a little bit. The top starts to pull back, the bottom is
still kinda movin' away. And here's where we're gonna have a big pop. What I'm actually gonna do, is replace this
model with two spheres. The easy way to do that... First let me name this Sphere 1. I'm gonna put a display tag on this. I'm going to say "use the visibility setting." And at this frame, it's 100
. I'm gonna go forward one frame, and set it
to zero. This is what the animation looks like so far. Boing, there you go. It's quick, and there's some things that I
don't love about it. I think it's really just this frame to this
frame. I think this frame might be a little extreme,
I may wanna pull that back a little bit. There we go. So that, now, it feels like it's still moving
outwards a little bit. Then, I feel like these need to move in a
little bit. So, now what I'm gonna do, is I'm gonna m
ake,
on this frame, I'm gonna turn off automatic key frame for a second. I'm gonna make a new sphere, and I am going
to apply. Let me go back to standard layout for a second. What I wanna do is add one sphere here and
one here, and kinda match the position as closely as I can. So, I'm going to make that sphere smaller. Go into object mode and try and... I'm gonna use some of these views here, to
help me figure out how big that sphere should be. It probably wants to be about that big. It needs to
be on the floor. Let's see, I must have moved my floor. It's actually at nine centimeters. So, that's a mistake, but we'll work with
that. So, that is now on the floor, and we're gonna
scoot it over here. You can see that because of the way I've been
using my mush tool, my brush tool, I haven't actually shaped this object that correctly. But, from the viewpoint of the camera, it's
working fine. That's really all we need to do. We're just faking this whole thing anyway. So, I'm just gonna make t
his look correct. So, that ball's there. Alright, I need to make it editable. This would be "Sphere L" I'm going to take
this other sphere, name it "Sphere R," and I'm gonna move it over here. I'm gonna apply the clay material to both. Then, I'm going to put a display tag on both
of these, as well. And, I'm going to have the opposite happen
to them. I'm gonna have them be invisible, until this
frame. Invisible in this frame, visible in this frame. If I say "use visibility," on this frame it's
10
0%, on the previous frame it's a zero. Then, I can just copy that display tag onto
this sphere. So, now I've got this, and then it turns into
spheres. I must have done something wrong, because... Let's see what I did. 100, there we go. Oh, I know what I did. Sorry, folks. Let me do this one more time. This always confused me, the visibility tag
has two things you can key frame. You can key frame this "Use," or you can key
frame the visibility. What I want to key frame is the visibility. So, visi
bility: 100, visibility: zero. There we go. Now, copy that onto here, so now, when we
go to this frame, it switches to these two spheres. Now, these two spheres are too perfect right
now, for sure. So, what I'm going to do, is I'm going to
select them both and I'm gonna use the brush tool again. I want them to feel a little bit stretched
at the beginning, like they are kind of pulling away from each other. What I'm gonna do, is have them start... And I just kinda go back and forth, like this. Un
til it feels like a good match. I'm also going to animate the position of
them. I'm going to turn on automatic key framing
now. I'm gonna move them, so let me switch back
to animation here. And, I want a position key frame on them,
on "X" and "Z." So, I'm going to select both of these, and
then I'm gonna put key frames on "X" and "Z." Now, I want them to basically move away from
each other pretty quickly, then decelerate and come to a stop a little bit slowly. I'm going to go into my overhead vi
ew here,
because it will be a little easier, because we're kinda looking at them at an angle. On the first frame, after the pop, I actually
want them a little bit further apart. On
the next frame, even further apart. Like, really far apart there. I think I put it on the wrong key frame. There we go. The reason it's not showing up in my timeline,
is probably because my view is set up wrong. If I go "view, show animated," then turn on
automatic mode. Now it's actually gonna show me Sphere L and
S
phere R. So, we have this splitting into two, they fly apart. They need to be a little further apart in
this frame, be a little further apart in this one. They're moving where they're kinda framed
weird in the camera now, so I can always move the camera. Maybe we'll do a stop motion camera move too,
that'd be kinda cool. They break apart 1, 2, 3. Let's do one more move, but they're already
starting to slow down now. Then, on the next frame, they move a little
bit more. Just a tiny bit. Then one
more frame where they move a little
bit. If we preview this, you can see there's a
little hitch in the movement. If we figure out what frame it is, it's this
frame here, where this object doesn't move very much. So, let's fix that frame. If we come in here, you can actually see... It's kinda tough to see, but you can actually
see where the key frames are. You can kinda see the line it's creating. What's more important is you can see the space
between them. So, you can imagine your curve. Like, d
o you have this quick move, then a
little slower, then a little slower, then a little slower, and then this last one should
be even slower. So, if we go to this last frame... Here we go, even slower. Let's do the same thing with the other sphere. I'm hitting an object and hitting "S," which
will zoom this view to the selected object. So, we have a big move, a little smaller move,
a little smaller, little smaller. Actually, this one I animated much better
than the other one. Now, let's preview th
is. Okay. It's workin' okay, obviously we still need
to do a little bit of sculpting on these. Now, we can do the point level animation on
these guys. They start out flattened, like this. I'm gonna go into my modeling brush tool. As they decelerate, they will slowly form
back into spheres. I'm gonna go ahead and just go into my editor
camera, here, so I can actually see what's happening. What I wanna do, is make it feel like right,
at this moment here, they're really still pretty stretched. Then
, it snaps back, and it snaps back pretty
quick. It maybe even kinda overshoots and pushes
him a little bit, and then comes back out. Let's see what that's lookin' like. That's actually kinda what I had in mind. Now, it feels a little slow, that move at
the end. So, what I could do, is speed that move up,
or I could slow this move down in the beginning, because, the speed that they split apart,
I kinda like. The beginning now feels a little fast to me,
so, what I'm gonna try to do, is just slow
down up to there. I gonna take all these key frames, move 'em
down, take all these key frames, and just stretch 'em out three or four frames. Then, move this back. Let's see what we get now. Yep, there we go. So, we get this nice little splat. Now let's deal with this camera. At the beginning, here, the camera's in a
good spot. At the end, it's not in a good spot. This is a really short animation, I'm realizing. But that's okay, it's really okay. Let's take off the protection tag. Turn off autom
atic key framing, 'cause we've
got the animation in a pretty good spot. Our camera, here, I like where it starts. So, I'm gonna put a key frame on it. I'm just gonna hit "F9" and have the key frame
on. By the time it ends, here, frame 20, I actually
want it to be looking that way. Which is kinda weird, it's very imperfect. The beauty of stop motion. What I just did there, putting a key frame
here and a key frame here on the camera, you could actually do that now, if you have software
like Dragon
frame. You can have motion control systems that will
smoothly move your camera. We're not going for that look, we're going
for the imperfect look. What I wanna do, is come into my curve editor. I just hit space bar over the timeline, bring
up my camera curves. I don't need the scale key frame, so I'm gonna
delete those. Rotation I do, but I really only need, I believe... Let's see here. Oh, I think I just erased my camera key frames,
let's undo this. There we go. Let's try this one more time, de
lete the scale
key frames. There we go. So, we're gonna go into the curves, check
out the position curves, here. You can see that there's an "Ease out" and
an "Ease in." I don't want that, because that's too computer
generated. So, I'm gonna hit option "L," I actually need
to go back into key frame mode, select all the key frames, hit option "L," and then do
the same on rotation. What that will do, if I go back to the curve
editor, is it makes linear moves, instead of ease in, ease out. I'm gonn
a go back to my key frame editor,
here. And I'm just go every so often, and I'm gonna
select position rotation. I'm going to add keys, like this. I'm just going to create by hitting "Add Key
At." Then, I'm just gonna move these around a little
bit. What I'm doing is I'm, overall, keeping the
same move. But, I'm adjusting the speed that the move
happens at. So, instead of this perfect move, it's gonna
be a little bit jerky. Then, maybe what I can do... Let's take all of the action, the balls drop
ping
and splitting, and let's delay them half a second, six frames. Let's spread out this camera move, so it lasts
another few frames afterwards. Let's make this 30 frames. Here's our animation. Again, we're gonna need a good "splat" noise
here. Let me do a quick render here, and let's see
what this is gonna end up like. I think I still have Ambient Occlusion and
Indirect Illumination turned on. So, this will give you a pretty good idea
of what this is gonna look like when it renders. For the fi
nal render, all I'm gonna do is
turn on Depth of Field and make sure that we're following focus, so that we get a little
bit of depth of field. And just kinda help soften things up a little
bit. I'm not really gonna do any post-compositing
or anything on this, because this tutorial was really all about how you can get this
look in Cinema. There's other things you could do in After
Effects or Nuke. You could simulate a little bit of light flicker. If you don't have a very tightly controlled
studi
o, it's pretty hard to get rid of flicker when you're shooting stop motion, that's one
of the things you have to avoid. You could add that, you could add film grain,
which always makes things look a little bit more like they were shot. Especially if you have depth of field and
you're sort of selling the idea that you shot this on your 5D or something. Well, who am I kidding? Most people don't have 5D, 7D. I really hope this was helpful, I hope you
guys learned about a few different ways to key f
rame, some point level animation, the
texturing system, how you can use displacement and bump to get things to look realistic. Thank you guys so much for watching this,
I really appreciate it and I will see you guys next time. Thank you. Thank you for watching. I hope you learned a lot and enjoyed making
this Claymation style animation in Cinema 4D. If you have any questions or thoughts, definitely
let us know. And, we would love to hear from you if you
use this technique on a project. So, give
us a shout on Twitter @SchoolofMotion
and show us your work. And if you learned something valuable from
this video, please share it around. It totally helps us spread the word about
School of Motion and we appreciate it a lot. Don't forget to sign up for our free student
account to access the project files for lesson that you just watched. Plus, a whole bunch of other awesome stuff. Thanks again and I'll see you on the next
one.
Comments
This is a fantastic tutorial. Thank you for sharing your C4D knowledge!
Materials seemed really confusing till i watched this. Super useful, thank you SO much!
Thank you! it was very useful for me.
Hello! I was wondering after applying the materials the subdivider really rounded my corners by a lot is there anyway to fix this?
Here you will find a very useful Quick Tip for Clay or Override Materials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOTGVSK8f9s
Thank you for this tutorial ! ;) Is it just me, I cannot unzip the project file ?
very useful & thanks a lot, but kinda sort of kind of sorta kinda kind of sort of sorta kinda
I've only recently been noticing that a lot of people use the word psyche for their backgrounds. Why is that and where does it come from?
Change the project file to .zip and it should open