E-Auto im Winter: Tipps für mehr Reichweite und Lade-Speed bei Kälte

Welcome to nextmovee. E-Cars in winter is our topic today. We take a look at the special challenges of the technology in winter. This is for example the Kia eNiro - inside -8 degrees, battery -5 degrees, outside -9 degrees celsius, its snowing We show you why e-cars have less range in winter and what you can do about it. E-cars are not usable in winter. Half the battery, low charging power, and when the highway is completely blocked, you're as good as frozen to death. These are common preconce

ptions about electric cars. In this video, we discuss four topics that will make you an electric car winter pro. 1. Why is the range of electric cars less in winter than in summer? 2. How do you get the maximum range out of your battery? I share with you my best tips for getting more range. This is my 9th winter driving electric. 3. what else is there to consider with the electric car in winter? I'll give you some important safety information and useful tips from my own experience. 4. Why are el

ectric cars very good winter cars? For all those who do not yet drive electric, I have a few compelling arguments that speak for the electric car in winter! Lets go: Why e-cars in winter actually have a lower range? The simple answer: Because it's colder. But that almost sounds as if you are at the mercy of the weather and can do nothing about it. But if you know the individual influencing factors, then you can very well do something. And that's why we're taking a look at them now. air density &

air resistance For a car to move, it needs energy to overcome air resistance. And the energy required to overcome air resistance also depends on the air density. Air density, in turn, depends on temperature and air pressure. The colder it is, the higher the air resistance. The humidity of the air also has an influence. Curiously, moist air has a lower density than dry air. In winter it is usually drier than in summer. However, this is only true as long as there is no precipitation: i.e. fog, ra

in or snow. And that brings us to the next factor, precipitation. Precipitation has a considerable influence on the range, in summer as well as in winter. When it rains or snows, consumption increases. However, this is not so much due to air resistance, but to the higher rolling resistance of the tires on the road. The water standing on the road has to be displaced, and that costs additional energy. When the road is wet, the tires always push a small wave in front of them and that costs energy.

Sounds silly, but when there is real water on the road, it is DEFINITELY noticeable. It gets even worse with ice, snow or even slush. In slush, you don't hit a wave, but a wall, so to speak. And another effect of the precipitation: Every little detail on the car is optimized for aerodynamics. Even the windshield wipers are hidden behind the hood. But when they move up and down in the rain or snow, that increases consumption. The tires, specifically an increased rolling resistance of winter tires

. Winter tires have a higher rolling resistance than summer tires or all-season tires. What is good for traction in the snow or grip on wet roads increases rolling resistance and thus consumption - even on dry roads. However, tires have improved in recent years and the influence is relatively small in my experience. For example, if you compare a 20-inch summer tire with an 18-inch winter tire, you could end up with the same fuel consumption. Battery: Performance However, cold ambient temperatur

es also have a major impact on the battery and the drive train in the car. After a few hours of standing outdoors, the battery cools down significantly. In our last tests, we showed that even a battery with a temperature of 40 degrees can cool down to 5 degrees during the night. And of course, we have already tested with batteries that were frozen through to -10°C. The car will still be running, of course, but the cold has a direct effect on the electrochemical processes in the battery. The inte

rnal resistance of the cells is greater due to the cold and the voltage drops. The result is a lower extraction of usable capacity. Charging power But it gets even tougher. Because cold batteries do not want to be charged quickly. The cells can be irreversibly damaged or at least age more quickly. The battery management system also knows this and reduces the charging power when it is too cold. The BMS also invests some energy in battery heating. If you drive to the fast charger with a cold batte

ry, you will charge much more slowly than in summer. If you are interested in this topic in detail, then I recommend our Tesla Model 3 Made in China winter test video or our big ID.3 winter test. In it, we explain this process in detail. Recuperation: If the battery is cold, then the recuperation performance is also reduced, because recuperation is nothing other than charging. But if the battery is cold, one of the key advantages of the electric car cannot be fully exploited. On the first kilome

ter, many e-cars behave like a combustion engine all year round: kinetic energy is dumbly converted into heat and particulate matter via the brake, and this increases consumption. Friction losses: In addition, there are also losses in the powertrain at cold temperatures, because there are also lubricants in the transmission and in various bearings in the electric car. At cold temperatures, these lubricants are initially more viscous and increase internal resistance. These rolling losses occur pa

rticularly on short trips when the overall system does not come up to temperature. Heating: Heating is one of the arguments that most people immediately think of when assessing the winter suitability of combustion engines and electric cars. And here, the combustion engine has a clear advantage, because in terms of energy, combustion engines are not vehicles, but mobile heaters. 75% of the energy is converted into heat, the drive is virtually a waste product. Therefore, there is enough waste heat

- .... at least when the engine is warm! E-cars, on the other hand, are very efficient: 90% movement 10% waste heat. Therefore, there is little waste heat that can be disposed of toward the occupants. So it has to be heated with electricity. Depending on the vehicle, the heating power is up to 7 kW, although this is only fully applied for heating up to the target temperature. This has a greater impact on short distances, because heating up requires much more energy than maintaining the selected

temperature later. Heat pump systems are more efficient, but often not to the extent promised by manufacturers. It is possible to save more than 50% in pure heating power. Our tests have also shown this. But on the long haul, this saving often only results in 5% less overall consumption and thus 5% more range. We have tested this so far with the Hyundai Kona, VW ID3 and Kia e-Niro with more or less good results. Mythbuster: How long can I heat up with my e-car on the highway in a full closure?

I already tested it myself 2 years ago at -5 degrees. A Kia eNiro has juice on board for over 3 days at 19 degrees interior temperature. Even with a third of the charge, there are still 24 hours of congestion. Other consumers: Compared to all other electrical consumers, the heating system is by far the most expensive. The ADAC has compiled an overview of the additional consumption for combustion and electric cars. Interior heating is followed by front and rear window heating, ventilation and low

beam. From my point of view, you can disregard all positions from number three on. It is not worth saving there! Omitting one fun acceleration per hour has the same effect. Those were the influencing factors: If you've learned something new up to this point or think it can help beginners, give the video a thumbs up. Share it with emobilists and those who want to be. And if you don't have a subscription yet, feel free to give us one - that would make me very happy. My winter tips Now that we kno

w exactly what factors influence winter range, I'll give you my veteran expert tips for getting the maximum range out of your battery. Most of the tips refer to trips where you need range, i.e. long distance. Winter tires: Look for low rolling resistance in winter tires. The lowest label for winter tires is a C in most sizes. The most efficient and cheapest is the smallest registered size. Larger tires are often also wider and mean more money for less range. Correct air pressure: Rather a little

more than in the summer and also check regularly. Who drives with too little air pressure has a higher consumption, because the contact surface and thus the rolling resistance is higher. The safety also suffers. Remove snow completely: If your car is snowed in, remove the snow from the roof and front hood as well before driving. This is not only required by law, but also reduces your consumption, especially at higher speeds. This is because the frontal area of the vehicle increases dramaticall

y and the aerodynamics are disturbed. In sum, this significantly increases consumption when driving fast. Battery tips: Use the garage, if available. Garage parkers have it better in many respects. The car is dry. The tailgate, wipers and doors do not freeze. No need to clear snow. And often garages are also somewhat warmer than the surroundings. This means that your battery also stays a little warmer throughout the winter. This saves energy while driving and provides more power at the fast cha

rger. Before a long drive, you should time the charging process so that the car is full in time for departure. This is because the battery also heats up passively during charging. In our tests with various cars, this heating on an 11kW wallbox in the Winer was 1-2 degrees per hour. Don't park your car after driving with an almost empty battery for several hours or even overnight. In general, cells age faster if you leave them at a low charge level for a long time. My advice: Never park your car

with less than 20%. Also, be sure to check the user manual to see what your manufacturer says about the battery and cold. Often, there are clear specifications that may lead to a loss of warranty if not observed. Example ID3, VW says "do not park below -30°C for more than 24h". So far so good - that doesn't happen so often. But beware: "In frosty conditions, do not park the vehicle for several hours below 40% charge". Frost means from -1 degrees! Then the old cowboy rule applies: After a long j

ourney, always take care of the horse first! At low outside temperatures, the battery cools down and the removable capacity decreases. The next morning, the remaining range of 50 km can turn into 25 km - possibly too little to reach the next watering hole. At least with Tesla, this can deviate so much, because the battery temperature is included in the displayed range. If you want to take a quick trip to the fast charger the next morning, you could spend a few hours there instead of 30 minutes.

If you are on the road with a cold battery and want to drive long distances with MANY charging stops, then drive the first part faster than usual. After 1 to 2 hours of fast highway driving, the battery is 10 to 20 degrees warmer. Of course, this only works on the German autobahn. Some e-cars preheat the battery independently when certain charging stations are integrated into the navigation. In addition to Tesla, Porsche and Mercedes can also do this. We hope that this will soon be standard in a

ll e-cars and that drivers will be able to decide for themselves whether they want heating or not. At VW, the feature is in the specifications for next winter. Some manufacturers also offer the option of preheating the battery while stationary. This usually happens automatically in parallel with the preheating of the interior. With Tesla, you can even preheat ONLY the battery. Simply set the climate control to MIN in the app and only the battery is heated and the interior remains cold. But be ca

reful: This draws a lot of power, so only do it if it really helps you. It is also important to start the first charging stop with the lowest possible charge level. This increases the possible charging power threefold. More draw-off beforehand means higher temperature. A lower charge level enables more charging power. And more charging power in turn means higher self-heating of the battery during charging. So it's a win-win situation. Some cars heat up the cold battery during a cold start while

driving without asking the user, especially German manufacturers. For ID3, the threshold is at about 7°C battery temperature. With the KIA eNiro, the threshold with winter mode is between -4 and -8 degrees battery temperature, so much lower. Tips for the interior temperature Heating before the ride If you can, then heat up the interior of the car 15-30min before departure, while it is still connected to the mains, I always set myself a few degrees more for this. You start with a warm car and on

ly have to keep it warm. This costs relatively little energy. The preheating can be set in many cars a departure time or started via app. How you can recognize the pros at the fast charger: They don't leave the doors open for long when they get out, so that the heat stays inside. Of course, this also applies to short trips in the city. If you let the heat escape carelessly during several stops, you will quickly double your winter consumption. A very simple but effective piece of advice. If you d

rive a lot of short distances with longer standing times in between, for example a care service - 10min driving, 30min standing - you will have more than double the winter consumption, because the car has to be heated up again and again. Smart heating while driving. Depending on the car, the heater has a very large effect on consumption with 1 to 3 kW of power in continuous operation during frosty weather. Every degree that you go higher costs electricity. Smart heating is the key to more range.

Smart means as much as smart. No one has to freeze, no sacrifice of comfort, and no cold noses. What can you do for it? If you are traveling alone, use the Driver Only function, if available. This way, the warm air is only directed at the driver and this saves energy. Next: Place the heat directly on the body. How does it work? Use seat and steering wheel heating and make sure that these functions are available when buying. Many of our users think that these consumers cost reach. But exactly th

e opposite is the case. The seat and steering wheel heating together are well below 100W for one person. The effect is clearly noticeable and you intuitively reduce the interior heating in return, which saves a lot of energy. If your car has a windshield heater, then use it when the windshield is icing up. This will cost you a few hundred watts - while the defroster function of the blower blows with 4 to 5 kW. Switch the heating to circulating air when heating up, so it will warm up faster. You

can also manually throttle the ventilation to have less throughput. Many manufacturers offer their e-cars with an optional heat pump. We have shown in several videos that the range gain is not as great as most believe. We recommend it only for frequent & long-distance drivers, people in regions where real winter regularly prevails or if the purchase price of the car plays a subordinate role. In any case, the heat pump is not a must-have. Clothes: Every degree that you have to heat less gives you

range. So in winter, don't ride in a T-shirt and sneakers, but rather with a thicker sweater and winter shoes. I always have a blanket in the car for the children on long journeys. The ADAC also recommends this in the event of a full closure - regardless of the type of drive. Keep the interior free of snow and water. In case of rain and snow, knock off the shoes beforehand. It is better to stow wet jackets in the trunk, because rain-soaked jackets quickly fog up the windows. Ecomodus: Ecomode i

s particularly helpful for drivers who do not want to spend a lot of time on the car. In Eco mode, the heating power is reduced. Secondly, the power pedal reacts less dynamically, which also brings range. This has another advantage: In slippery conditions, the wheels do not spin as quickly, since the current pedal reacts sluggishly - almost like the combustion engine ;-) Ecomode therefore does not make the car more economical, but makes it easier for the user to move the car more economically.

Note: If you or your passengers get cold, turn off Eco. In some cars, the heating throttling is fixed and the car only gets lukewarm. Driving on the highway in crap weather: In rainy and standing wet conditions, ruts without standing water are often formed by vehicles in front. Of course, this is true in summer as well as in winter: Who drives in the track has a lower consumption. The cross-country skiers among you know it: in the track it is less exhausting than in deep snow. In slush, of cours

e, the effect is much greater than in water. And the braking distance is also shortened. If you don't drive your own electric car yet, I have another tip for you: Winter is the best time of year to try it out. If you warm up to the e-car in winter, so you can assess the limitations yourself and also experience the benefits, then summer will be a dream! The right accessories for your own winter check are available at nextmove. Get one of our 400 e-cars at 12 locations for your personal winter tes

t. Especially in these somewhat monotonous times, an e-car can offer you a real adventure with many new experiences. Take advantage of our special offers, e.g. Corsa-e from 399€ or a Hyundai Kona from 499€ for one month for rent. (3.) Safety instructions and further tips In addition to these fuel economy tips, I also have important safety and everyday tips, because there are also a few e-car specific things to keep in mind. Very important: Saving energy must never be at the expense of safety! Al

l windows must be free of ice and fog at all times. Set the temperature reasonably with appropriate clothing - if you're cold, you're not a good driver. Wear appropriate clothing. Caution: heavily lined jackets do not provide enough safety in case of accidents, because the belt is not tight enough - this applies to all occupants. Thickly lined gloves do not provide the necessary grip for fast maneuvers. Don't skimp on the light - the effect is barely measurable. Very important: Don't drive too

close in the slipstream behind trucks or other vehicles - those days are over. Modern e-cars offer sufficient range and a high charging speed so that no one has to risk a rear-end collision. One of our customers learned this lesson the hard way in 2017. This Renault Zoe was brand new and a total loss after 300 km of highway driving. Fortunately, our tenant got out unharmed. I had already mentioned it in the consumption section: Recuperation performance is reduced in cold conditions. One-pedal dr

iving is limited and you will have to brake yourself at the beginning of the journey when the battery is cold. Many cars show this limitation in the display. Caution with abrupt load changes: In slush and slippery conditions in curves or when driving fast, sudden recuperation can cause the vehicle to swerve slightly. The ESP then intervenes, but that's where many a person has gotten a fright. In bad road conditions, you should be aware of this and set recuperation to weak or off if your car offe

rs this function. On long distance trips you should drive with more reserve. In bad weather, the likelihood of a full stop increases and you should have enough power. So much for safety and now a few everyday tips in winter: Be sure to also check your car's owner's manual to see what it says about winter tips. Do not use a car wash in very cold weather, unless you can park the car in a warm place immediately afterwards. The rubbers in the doors, on the windows and on the charge port get wet and

can freeze more easily. If it must be, then rub all rubbers and doors dry afterwards. Lubricate door rubbers with suitable anti-freeze agents. Very important, do not forget the charging plug! Keep the charging plug dry and clear it of water and snow after loading - if it freezes, you can try de-icer spray - this should not be stored in the car as doors can also freeze Deactivate the automatic folding of the mirrors. Icing can damage the motors or the mechanics. Also important: Antifreeze for the

windshield washer system is mandatory for electric cars. Unlike the combustion engine, there is no combined heat and power unit at the front to thaw the frozen water tank or the lines. Covering the windshield overnight with a suitable tarp also saves time or heating power in the morning, of course. The 12 V battery of an e-car can also go on strike. So if you use the on-board electrics like infotainment for a longer time, then turn your car completely ON and secure it in position P, otherwise t

he 12V battery can discharge. We have already experienced this with Smart, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia. The cars have a software problem and let 12V die when using the infotainment, although there is enough power and the car should just control the so-called DC converter. And here's where it gets really tough: In heavy snowfall, the winter service has to prioritize which infrastructure is cleared first. It can happen that fast chargers on the highways have not yet been cleared. That's how the renter o

f our Porsche Taycan felt last week. He had to reschedule flexibly several times. So, I think naysayers are now finally out! I wouldn't go so far now as to say you have to have a snow shovel with you on long hauls. But if the alternative is stranding, I would rather pack something to shovel in critical weather conditions. Maybe it will help to clear the car on the side of the road someday. (4.) Winter advantages of the E-car If you've looked this far, you're either an e-car driver or have a genu

ine interest in electromobility. E-car drivers know it, of course: E-cars also have advantages over internal combustion engines in winter. The most common reason for failure on all cars is a died 12 volt battery due to the cold. With an internal combustion engine, high starting currents are required when starting and these vehicles can only recharge their 12V battery while driving. Short trips are sometimes not enough for this. With the e-car, of course, there is no need for a starter motor to s

tart the car, and the 12V battery can be constantly recharged, whether the car is driving, charging, or just standing around stupidly for weeks. Some models, such as those from Nissan, Hyundai and Kia, even show it via a charging lamp when they are currently donating power at 12 V. But not all manufacturers do it equally well. As a lessor of all current models, I can tell you that 12 volts can also be a reason for failure in an e-car. Technically, there is actually no reason why an e-car has to

break down because of 12 volts. Because actually the DC converter could keep even a car with a dead 12V battery drivable by continuous recharging. Now it gets tricky: Are electric cars allowed to receive jump-starts or jump-start other cars? Yes, but. And it depends. One after the other. If your 12V drops below a certain threshold, your car will no longer start. Partly the doors will not open anymore. Most e-cars are allowed to receive jump-starting assistance. Check the operating instructions

for this. Normally, it is enough to connect the dispenser, thereby more than 12V are present, your car can be started and then immediately begins to charge 12V again independently. You do not have to drive then. But the operational readiness should remain switched on for some time. And donations? Not really, although with another e-car there's nothing to be said against it. However, you must not jump-start a combustion engine. Not for ideological reasons but for technical reasons. Large currents

flow at the starter and these can overload your DC-DC converter. This can be really expensive. What does VW say, listen closely: "For technical reasons, the jump-start points on electric vehicles are not designed for external start support for other vehicles." I have also helped internal combustion vehicles in need. And this is how... Please do not imitate, especially not with rented cars! I hooked up the e-car to the combustion engine for half an hour as an external 12V charger. Then disconnec

ted the cables. And only then did I start the combustion engine. Also a powerbank can solve the problem. Other advantages. Many people no longer want to do without preheating the interior via app. It also largely eliminates the annoying task of scraping the windows free. Of course, a combustion engine with optional auxiliary heating can do that, too, but it costs extra - in an electric car, it's standard. Even if you don't preheat, the interior gets warm in no time - with the combustion engine

it takes much longer, depending on the design. Cheap diesel usually stops at minus 20 degrees. At such temperatures, even winter diesel turns into a cloudy, viscous mass that no engine can swallow. E-cars, on the other hand, are sometimes specified in manufacturers' instructions without a cold limit, at least as far as driving is concerned. Kia simply states: "The preheating of the high-voltage battery may not work if the battery temperature falls below -35°C." and Renault: "If the vehicle is pa

rked for more than 7 days at temperatures below -25°C, charging of the traction battery may be impossible." or VW: "Do not park below -30°C for more than 24 hours. Combustion engines have a higher wear rate when the engine and transmission are cold - and most journeys are short trips where the engine does not warm up. If you step on the gas too much now, you can damage your drive. That can't happen with an electric car. If it is too cold, then you get less power on kickdown, but nothing can bre

ak. The power pedal can be operated much more sensitively than the gas pedal. In combination with the assistance systems, this makes it easier to get out of deep snow. Electric motors react many times faster and, in combination with the assistance systems, can intervene better in driving operations. If you want to play it safe, choose electric with all-wheel drive. And at cold temperatures, of course, there is no exhaust gas purification at all, especially with diesel. Cleaning is already reduce

d below 15 degrees. At less than 5 degrees, it's usually over to protect the engine - and you can smell that in the cold on the road. The average winter temperature in Germany is around 4 degrees. In any case, I'd rather drive an electric car for a few days a year that has twice the fuel consumption and thus half the range in short-haul operation than a diesel that has had its emissions control programmed away. Rule of thumb for all drivers: Keep enough distance at the traffic lights so that you

can still see the car's exhaust. Otherwise, you'll pull the full exhaust fumes into the passenger compartment via the ventilation. When I started driving electric in 2012, most e-cars didn't make it 100km in winter and there wasn't even a fast charging station every 100km in Germany. Back then, that was a real problem. Back then! Today, electromobility is already suitable for everyday use for many. Of course, it is not yet suitable for everyone, and it doesn't have to be. By definition, not eve

ryone can be a first mover at the same time. But cars and infrastructure are evolving rapidly, and every year it becomes a valid option for more drivers. A look at Norway shows that e-cars are fully-fledged cars even in Arctic conditions. In 2020, every second newly registered car there was purely electric, and that in a country where it gets really cold for several months every year. In any case, I would not make the purchase decision dependent on the coldest day of the year. If you learned som

ething new in this video, subscribe to the channel, like the video and share it with friends who have so far refrained from the e-car due to the supposed winter weaknesses If you have any othe winter tips, feel free to write them in the comments for me and everyone else. I'm very excited to see what else you do to get through the winter.