Good morning and welcome to day four of the linden denim shorts. So along by so a little seam patterns Yesterday you completed your zipper fly Construction Once you have that behind you You're scot-free So it is easy from here on out. So today we are going to work on our back pockets We are going to construct and apply the back pockets and the back yoke We're also going to be able to try our shorts on for fit So they will be constructed to the point where they are beginning to look like shorts W
e can try them on and see where we need to remove any excess ease to ensure a proper fit So let's dive right in we'll get started on our back pockets. Now, let's finish these shorts We are going to begin construction of the back part of the short, so you will need the fabric that corresponds to your Shorts back pattern piece and your back yoke piece You can see that I have mine here The yoke piece to become familiar with it has a wide and a narrow side When you look at how the yoke corresponds t
o your pants you will want The wide side of the yoke to be lining up with the center back seam so this is the crotch seam here and This is the wide side of the yoke So ensure that they are lined up in this fashion and not with the wide along the outside seam So line them up in this way and then take the yoke and just flip it down so that they are right sides together You will sew along this seam With a straight stitch on your sewing machine and a 5/8 inch seam allowance Now I have my yoke so int
o my shorts back with a 5/8 inch seam allowance Now we've talked about before but I just want to reiterate that. It is important to pay special attention to The seam allowance. We want everything to line up in the end and proper seam allowance is important for that Now I'm going to take my serger You can also use a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine and I am going to finish the two edges if you look at the instructions in the pattern They will instruct you to trim one of your seam allowance p
ieces shorter. I do not do that this is simply my preference it is up to you whether you follow the instructions in the pattern or Do it this way. I am simply going to Serge along both pieces of my seam allowance surging them together Now that I have finished the scene we are going to press I'm going to fold the yoke up and I'm going to flip the garment over When I press I want to ensure that the seam allowance is facing down and Tug a little bit on the yoke to ensure that I get a nice tight, pr
ess on my seam Now I've pressed my yoke you can see the other side It has the seam allowance facing down and now I'm going to top stitch I'm going to top stitch with two lines of top stitching one Very close to the seam and one further away on the shorts portion of the pants So I'm going to top stitch below The line of stitching and I'm going to be catching the seam allowance in that line of stitching We are now going to begin construction and application of our back pocket So you will have two
mirror imaged back pocket pieces here You will have the interfacing applied to the top back of the pocket piece ironed on We are going to begin by folding the top of the pocket down you want to fold it down Three-eighths of an inch the way that I do. That is I play some mark 3/4 of an inch down from the top of the pocket 3/4 of an inch is 3/8 of an inch times two So 3/4 of an inch down If you place a mark All the way across You will simply need to fold the top of your pocket down to that line Fo
ld the free edge at the top down to that line and that will be three eighths of an inch fold, press that and Then once again fold down Another three eighths of an inch and press again Now you will top stitch Along the top of the pocket with one single line of top stitching Once you've top stitched the top of your pocket it is at this point that you would put any additional decorative top stitching along the back of your pocket Once you have either added decorative top stitching or not, you're re
ady to move on to Folding in all of the other free edges, you will do that in the same manner that you did the top We will be folding them in 3/8 of an inch. So I measure in 3/4 of an inch all the way around the entire free edge I fold the outside in to that mark and press all the way around so you have both of your pockets pressed in 3/8 of an inch all the way around and The next step has you go ahead and attach them to the back of the shorts. I prefer to wait Until I have the shorts partially
constructed to better understand pocket placement and choose the placement That is most flattering for my shape We are now going to sew our shorts together and begin to Achieve a proper fit the first step is to take one piece of your back shorts piece Your other back shorts piece lay them atop one another Before I sew them together I like to use wash away under tape to line up the yoke seam line to ensure that once they're sewn They will be perfectly aligned. So I place wash away wonder tape alo
ng my yoke seam line Line them up and adhere them together. I am now going to use my sewing machine and a 5/8 inch seam allowance And I'm going to sew along the back Center seam the curve of the crotch line Once you have sewn the back Center seam of your shorts with a 5/8 inch seam allowance, you can open them up Double check to make sure that the yoke lines up perfectly in the instructions The next step is to top stitch this seam But I wait to do that until I have ensured that I've received a p
roper fit the next step that I take is to take the front Shorts piece That you have completed here and place it right side down Atop your shorts back You will need to line up the crotch point of The back of the pants and the crotch point of the front. I have a plate piece of washaway wonder tape here To ensure that the two seams line up I also make sure that my seam allowance of my pants is facing to the left in the same direction the seam allowance on The top is facing And now I line up The cen
ter seam of the legs and I am going to sew from the hem line Up to the crotch point and back down the other leg to the hem line With a straight stitch and a 5/8 inch seam allowance on my sewing machine And now that I've sewn the inside leg seam I'm going to trim these right side out and you can see what we have sewn together here So we have the inside leg seam sewn and We have the Center crotch seam sewn and right up the back I Am now going to try these on for fit When I do so I am going to take
my clips and I'm going to clip a 5/8 inch seam allowance down the sides to adhere them so that they stay on my body and I can begin to see how they fit at this point and Pick up pinch out any excess ease that I have Now pinning your shorts on yourself is kind of an awkward process But it's important to try them on at this point To judge for fit to see how they're fitting with no alterations so I Can see that I have a little additional crotch depth then what I would prefer Check this here. If yo
u have gaping here, then you'll need to remove a little bit out of a wedge shape Here at centre-back to help it curve and have a nice fit. I Have a little bit of extra ease at this point so what I'm going to do next is Take the shorts off Turn them inside out put them back on just like you see them here but inside out and then I'm going to pinch out the excess ease and clip along the crotch curve to pinch out any excess ease So I had these on inside-out And I'm going to take a little bit out of
this top Seam out of this in the back Now one thing that is important to keep in mind is the stretch percentage of your fabric if you have a higher stretch percentage, then the shorts are going to Relax more throughout the day all denim will relax by its very nature as you wear it if you have a stretch denim you can Shoot for a more snug fit With your initial fit knowing that they will relax with wear So all I'm doing is going down the back Center senior get a friend to help you with this. It ca
n be beneficial I'm simply pinching out the ease and Then I'm going to go back with my sewing machine and take a little bit wider seam allowance along The pins using them as a guide So now you can see the way that they fit After I made a couple quick alterations and I'll show you those alterations in just a minute I changed the crotch depth by taking it in just a bit and The rear curves now more with my shape rather than having a point here and XS ease underneath It has a nice curve with my shap
e now right now. We're focusing primarily on crotch curve in depth. We're not focusing on overall Bagginess if you have a little bit too much ease throughout you can simply take a wider seam allowance when you sew The sides here that out the side seams and pull everything in so if you have a little bit of wrinkling here grab the waistband and pull it up just a bit and It will mimic the fit that you will achieve once you have your waistband attached a small amount amount of wrinkling here is Expe
cted ready to wear jeans have it's just where your leg bends So I'm happy with this fit. I'll show you the alterations that I made and we'll move on to the next step So I will show you the old and the new seam from the shorts You can see here this was the five-eighths inch seam allowance and I brought my new seam in to here and I graded it to nothing at The crotch point I met the original crotch point. I Have not had to do any alterations to the front curve And we already have that top stitched
in a previous step so I haven't ever had to change the front curve only the rear and So this is the back center seam You can see I took it in and then the crotch depth I did with the center leg seam So this is the inside of the leg the crotch point and the other inside of the leg Now I didn't slim the width of the leg I began about here and I came in and up just a bit to take a little bit of depth out of the crotch and came back down this eliminated it was only about a quarter of an inch that I
took out but it eliminated some bagginess in this area and this Alteration is important for me to help achieve a good fit. It takes that Center back curve right here at the crotch point and kind of snugs it up a little bit So you get that nice fit that is more flattering so now that we have Chosen our final seam, I Go back over my final seam with a triple stitch it's a very strong stitch on your sewing machine and It simply goes forward and back three times I always do that along the crotch curv
e because this seam will have a lot of stress on it, especially if you're distressing distressing your denim can weaken it just a bit and This helps me feel more secure that the shorts are well made So I'm going to go back over My final scene with a triple stitch and then I'm going to trim off the excess with my serger to finish the seam So because I already have my Center leg seam so I can only triple stitch down to the crotch point I cannot move past that because I have my Center leg seen here
that creates an obstacle So I did my triple stitch down the center back seam curve to the crotch seam And I am now going to triple stitch from the hem line Up the inside of one leg to the crotch point and back down the other leg We are now going to top stitch the scenes that we just completed. I Choose to not top Stitch the inner leg seams it really simplifies Top stitching because we have constructed the shorts in a different order or sewn the seams in a different order then the instructions i
ndicate To make it possible for us to try them on and alter them for fit You can top stitch the inner leg seam if you choose to do so I would do that seam top stitching first before you do the center-back top stitching Ensure that your center back seam allowance is pressed in the right direction Top stitch the inside of the legs and then you can move on to the next step which I will cover We are going to top stitch the center back seam You can see the top stitching here that we have in the front
that extends from the fly down to the crotch point we are going to continue this line of top stitching up and around the back you Want to catch the seam allowance in your top stitching so ensure that the top stitching is pressed in the correct direction in Order to catch it in your top stitching Your second line of top stitching will begin here Right at the curb of your fly Will extend down past the crotch point and around and up the back center seam once you have top stitched The back center s
eam We are going to finish the side seams We are going to finish these sides in the same way that we finished the inner leg seams I am going to use my serger Um, if you don't have a serger, you're welcome to use a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine and I am going to Serge each individual layer, so I'm going to take the back of the shorts finish the raw edge with my serger and The front of the shorts finish the raw edge with my serger. I'm going to do that for both sides We are now going to ba
ste our side seams you have finished the raw edges of both the front and the back short pieces And we are now going to sew with a 5/8 inch seam allowance on your sewing machine Basting the two layers together I do based at this point and then try on for fit If you're satisfied for fit Then you can go back over the line of stitching I use a triple stitch on the side To ensure that it is the strongest stitch possible if you find that they're a little bit loose then you can take a wider seam allowa
nce pull out your basting stitches and Find the best placement for your side seam and the fit that works best for you It is at this point that I try them on for fit I've rolled them up to mimic how short they will be once I trim away any excess length. I Still have my extra zipper because mine's if it was longer their hopes necessary we'll trim that in just a minute, but you can see that they fit well and The rear fits well and So I'm happy with the results if you find that they're a little bit
too loose you can take a Smaller seam allowance along the sides and snap them in a bit It is at this point that I find pocket placement. You can see my pocket here with liberal Washing my blender tape all the way around. I place the wonder tape along the fold to hold the fold in and so I simply Find placement And Simply find proper placement for the pocket and then we will attach our pockets Do this before attaching the waistband so that I have a greater freedom of access to? sew the pocket on O
nce you have sewn your side seams and you're satisfied with the fit of your shorts and you have found proper pocket placement by trying the shorts on and adhering the pockets with wash away wonder tape I Always take them off and double check placement by measuring just to make sure that they're not off Once you secure them to the pants, you don't want to have to pull them back off and move them So I simply measure from the edge of the pocket to the center back seam on both sides to ensure that i
t is very similar from the top of the pocket to the yolk top stitching on both sides and From the bottom of the pocket to the center top stitching to ensure that they are all even all the way around Once you're satisfied with that, we will adhere them to the pants with top stitching We will sew two lines of top stitching from the top corner of the pocket Down and around to the other corner of the pocket on both corners I always place a Triangle of stitching to help reinforce the pocket and secur
e them to the pants You can see one of my pockets sewn here with the single line of top stitching Let's see the triangle here. I simply begin my stitching down here at the bottom of the triangle I sew up across and down I sew as close to the edge of the pocket as I can and Now I'm going to go back and sew a second line of top stitching just in from this first way So I have both pockets attached to the back of the shorts As you reach one of the points on your pocket simply lower your needle and p
ivot In order to keep the sharp corners on your top stitching The next step from the top stitching of your shorts after you attach The back pockets is to sew a line of top stitching down the side seam this helps Give it a professional look and helps secure the side seam seam allowance down. I wait and Do this line of top stitching after I have sanded my shorts? When you sand you want to avoid any top stitching it can ruin the top stitching that you have established So I'm careful to not touch an
y of the top stitching with sandpaper And this line? Can be a little bit difficult to avoid so after I sand, but before I bleach I Will add this line of top stitching?
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