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Rock Climbing Classics | EP#2 Action Directe 9a

ACTION DIRECTE 9a | WALDKOPF, FRANKENJURA "A number is just a number..." www.mammut.ch/rockclimbing RECLIMBING THE CLASSICS Mammut presents six 'rock classics' -- milestones in the history of sports climbing. And the people who climbed them for the first time, revisiting their own routes accompanied by top climbers from the Mammut Pro Team. Credits: Climbers: Jan Hojer Wolfgang Güllich Director & editor: Nicolas Falquet Jonathan Gallaud Camera: Nicolas Falquet Photography: Rainer Eder Thomas Ballenberger Gerd Heidorn Music: Solex / www.mxd.ch Loved it? Drop a like, post a comment and get ready for more by subscribing to the Mammut YouTube channel. Click here to subscribe https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9JoqmFQnLjVmgqE_7uqMyA Explore the world of Mammut on Social Media: Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/mammut_swiss1862 Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/Mammut/ TikTok – https://www.tiktok.com/@mammutswiss1862 Shop Mammut products: https://www.mammut.com/int/en #mammut #rock #climbing

MAMMUT

9 years ago

I find it great to talk with someone who ... ... knew Wolfgang because ... ... I began climbing at such a late age ... ... that it was always just a legend to me ... ... and the route was too. ... It was a 9a and known as the most difficult, ... ... the first and most difficult in the world. And it's probably the most famous image ... ... of Wolfgang in action. Yes I took it in 1992 ... ... but he couldn't climb it that time. So it was clear ... He did it for photos. But you know yourself that .
.. ... when you're being photographed you're perhaps not quite as motivated. A route just for a photographer. Yes, that's the first move and how did it ... ... how did it go for you, the first move? Yes, well ... ... it's the most difficult single move by far. It feels just like Wolfgang looks in this picture. You're hanging there in the finger pocket and ... ... you're always surprised by how far it is ... ... to the next relatively good hold. But it looked very, very good when you did it. You
held it well ... ... and reached the other pocket spot on ... ... and boom! - and then you swing out ... ... and then you had to hold this whole swing. It's a very athletic move and ... ... those who do a lot of hall training will be in good stead. This is the direction in which ... ... bouldering in particular has developed in the last few years. Jumping? I mean towards jumping? Yes, exactly. Because everything has got a bit more dynamic and so on. And I think that's why the jump ... ... seemed
even more difficult to many people in Wolfgang's time than today. You can really see his back muscles too. These pronounced, ... ... these strong forearms. Well that was really ... ... his particular physique. He trained to get it. You can see that he invested a lot of time in it, yes, ... ... so that he could climb this route and his other projects. I mean, he trained, but then took long breaks. He always had to motivate himself for this kind of project. It was fun for him. If there was no pro
ject, then he was ... When you ask yourself why you do it all, yes. Then he spent days just reading ... ... or didn't even come out of his room. It really was like that. But that was a real milestone, ... ... the Action Directe.

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