Vintage Men Dressed Better--Here Are 10 Keys to Their Style!

Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. Today,  I discuss 10 things that vintage gentlemen just wore better than modern today, and I'll  show you what you can do to adapt their style, be inspired by it without  looking like your grandpa. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪ Whenever I look back at old films, magazines, or even family albums, one thing is painfully obvious: all these people look so elegant and they  were dressed so well even though they might have just been a farmer or a store cle

rk or just  an everyday person going about their business. Just compared to today, when you walk around  outside you see people with a hoodie, sweatpants, and some trainers or even in the summer with a pair of shorts with flip-flops and a stained shirt. So, you might be wondering how did Cary Grant, Sydney  Poitier, or William Powell or even your grandpa manage to look so good. Today, I try to answer this  question by looking at ten different things vintage gentlemen did that many men today don

't anymore.  That being said, there's nothing that keeps you from reviving those great sartorial habits. Of  course, this is just our subjective opinion and you shouldn't take it personally, but I hope that,  by the end of this video, you'll say, ["Thrift Shop" by Macklemore & Ryan Lewis] First, let's kick it off with a very clear example: Black Tie. No matter whether it's a vintage fashion plate, a  painting, or James Bond in a movie, they all look so irresistibly dapper and handsome. That's es

pecially  true when compared to what passes as black tie today at the Oscars, weddings, or gala events. So, the big question is: what went wrong? Back in the day, chances were that, even as a middle class  person, you owned your garments and didn't just rent them. Okay, maybe with the exception of the 60s  and 70s when men started renting stuff. And looking back at those pictures, just think about those  ruffled shirts and gigantic bow ties. Yes, once men started renting tuxedos, things went dow

nhill  quickly. But, even just a few decades earlier, men did not rent. Even the blue collar Popeye from  1956 owned a tuxedo. Because renting a tuxedo is so popular these days, we wanted to see what you  actually get for your money and just take a look at this. No, my inseam did not shrink before we  provided the accurate measurements and when we filmed this video, but it was just a complete sh*t show. To learn more about rental tuxedos and what you can buy instead, check out this video here.

So,  by investing in a tuxedo, men could guarantee that they got something that actually worked for them and their body, that they were comfortable in, that they could wear, clean, and enjoy. Realistically, men back  then had to spend more of their income on clothes because the production had not been shipped  offshore. Of course, also more people wore tuxedos, which meant there was more variety in  the styles that they could buy at a regular store and the accessories. I mean, they had differen

t bowtie shapes, different sizes, slim ones, big ones, pointed ones, and so forth. Go to a store today,  you're lucky if they have a single kind of bow tie that you can actually tie yourself and that's  not pre-tied. Otherwise, you just look like a boy who goes to prom. If you've never tied a bowtie before, no worries. We got you covered with videos for beginners that are easy and we  have more advanced ones. We also offer a range of bow ties that are all self-tie in shapes that are  guaranteed

to work for your face shape. Of course, it didn't stop there. They had evening waistcoats  or cummerbunds, boutonnieres, pocket squares, socks, evening shoelaces, and so forth. Sadly, today,  most men lack the knowledge of Black Tie and what to put together. Fortunately, we have  the most comprehensive guide on that matter that tells you everything about the history,  what you have to wear. And, even if you have just five minutes, take a look. We'll walk you through  what looks best on you and

why you should wear it. Well, "aren't dress codes really a thing of the past,"  you might think. "Aren't we all individual today?" Well, yes and no. Dress codes are the idea of helping  you to put something on that was acceptable, so you could focus on the company rather than  being self-conscious about your outfit and whether you're over or underdressed or just dressed  appropriately. Back in the day, gentlemen had the option of White Tie, which was arguably the most  elegant thing for them to

wear and, looking at that, it is really stunning. Every man I've ever  seen wearing a white tie tailcoat just looks awesome. Now, why is that? Well, the dress code  is very strict and there's not much room for individuality, other than maybe the bow tie shape  or the color of your pocket square. Black Tie, on the other hand, gives you a little more variety  in terms of the color, maybe a midnight blue or something in really dark navy with black  silk lapels. Maybe you want different slippers in

velvet or on the bowtie front. But, after all, it's  still rather limiting but, because of that, it's much easier to look dapper and handsome. The second thing vintage men wore better were shoes. We already discussed in a different  video why men stopped wearing dress shoes. But, back then, obviously, they did and dress shoes  not only had an elegant last, but they were also made of higher quality materials than sneakers  today. That, of course, was reflected in the price. Again, shoes weren't m

ade offshore and a nice pair  of Florsheim in the 1940s cost you $10. Considering that the annual family income was $1,600, that's  the equivalent of a pair of Florsheim and today that costs $400. Now, Florsheim, of course, you can get for a lot less and we did a video between a difference of $100 and $500 shoes, where the Florsheim only cost a hundred. But, if you get a pair of $400 shoes today, you get what most men wore back in the day. Now, if you ask any man in the street how much they sp

end on their  shoes, the average will definitely not be $400. At the end of the day, if you look back, vintage  gentlemen were forced to buy more expensive shoes. But, they also lasted longer and the cost-per-wear  was low. Today, we're constantly tempted to buy that next pair of low-quality shoes because it's  in line with the latest trends. But, it leaves us unsatisfied and with something that we have to  throw away, that can't really be repaired. Now, you might say, "If I have to pay $400 for

a quality  pair of shoes, I can only afford to have one or two pairs and that's not enough for my style. It's  not varied enough." Well, in that case, it's great to start out that way and, if you want a different  look, you can get different colored shoelaces, which really change the game. A black pair of Oxfords may be perfect for an interview at a bank, but with a red pair of shoelaces, it makes all the  difference. And now, you can go to a cocktail party and look dressed to the tee. Of cours

e, back then,  men didn't have the chance to order online and, even though Sears was around, they would typically  buy their shoes at the store. They also had more widths and shoe lasts that allowed for a more  comfortable fit. Shoes were also made that they could be repaired the local cobbler. Try that with  your Nike sneakers. And also because vintage men had to spend so much money, they took care of their  stuff. They polished them, moisturized them, put their shoes in shoe trees, and had a f

ew quality  items in their wardrobe. Well, today, most men don't wear shoe trees. They don't care about their  stuff. When a sole is worn down, they'll just toss it and buy a new pair because the repair locally  for a pair of shoes that cost $70, $80, or $100 would probably cost about the same of a pair of  new shoes made abroad. Some Americans back then were so proud, they told their mothers about their new shoe purchases. [scene from "Goodfellas"] Henry: "Hi, mom! What do you think?" Henry: "L

ook at my shoes. Aren't they great?" Mother: "My god! You look like a gangster!" The third thing vintage men look better in was generally their socks. Now, you might think, "Well, they had navy socks and black socks and maybe gray socks." But, that  couldn't be further from the truth. They actually had socks in a variety of colors and patterns.  Sometimes with hand embroidered clocks. Trying to buy or sell something like that today would cost  you a small fortune. Most of them back then were ove

r-the-calf socks that stayed up or they had sock  suspenders for their shorter socks. So, the look of the sock was never crumpled up, but always smooth  between the shoe and the hem of the pants. If you buy a $4 pair of socks today, they're  gonna be thicker, they'll have more synthetic materials, which makes your sock warmer than  all-natural materials that were worn back then, and, overall, not as sophisticated looking as with  a higher-quality pair of socks made of natural materials. To learn

more of the difference in  socks, check out this video here. Look at old advertisements or fashion magazines. It is stunning  how much the market in socks has changed today. If you go to a regular department store or even  haberdashery, often the selection is rather limited and dim. Of course, there are many men who like  to buy their socks in a multi-pack on Amazon or at Costco. But, as this Hanes ad actually describes,  "buy cheap socks and you'll pay through the toes." Ironically, Hanes toda

y is not what I would  describe a quality sock anymore. I mean, I get it. Some men may be intimidated by all the different  sock colors and the patterns and how you can combine them, but we got you covered. We have this  video and a guide on how to pair socks with shoes that shows you how you can elevate your  outfits with a simple thing such as socks. Soon, you'll be saying, ["Sock It To Me" by Judy Carne] The fourth thing vintage men were better than men today are trousers, slacks, pants, what

ever you  want to call them. So, again, the question is: why did they look so good? In my opinion, it's because  they all had high-rise trousers. What does it mean? Your pants actually set on your natural  waist around your belly button, not just on your hips. Not only did that make your pants more  comfortable, but it also elongated your leg line and made you just look better. Some may argue  it had to do with the fullness of the trousers but, if you look at the 1910s or 1920s, pants were  slim

, maybe similarly slim to today with a slim hem. By 1930s, everything got a lot bigger and fuller.  But, what all of those decades had in common were high-rise trousers that set at a natural  waist. No matter how full or pleated the pants were. Then, of course, the pants fit the people who  are wearing them. They weren't super tight and they weren't gigantic either. I mean, just look at me  and my thigh. I have these big thighs, so I generally can't wear off-the-rack, flat-front pants because  t

hey always make me look like a pressed sausage. Because of that, I typically wear pleats or I have  to go custom to get a pair of flat-fronted pants. Another reason why men back then looked  better is because they either wore suspenders or belts. Suspenders have the advantage that your  pants rest on your shoulders, so you can actually have a little more room in the waist for a  big dinner or lunch. But, throughout the day, they will always hang at the exactly same height, which allows for more

comfort. Belts, which became much more popular in the 30s and in following  decades, can also help you keep your pants up, but it's much easier if you have that high waistline  because it just grips your body better than just over the hips. If you're curious about how pants  should actually fit so you look your best, we got a video for you. Of course, it helped men back then  that fashions weren't as short-lived as they are today and they also weren't as extreme. I've never  seen skinny jeans, f

or example, back then. That being said, the 1970s bell bottoms... Ouch! Or just look  at these hyper flare jeans. They're more like Oxford bags. In all honesty though, I've never  seen someone wearing like this on the street. I've seen plenty of skinny jeans though. Another  god-awful trend are these tactical cargo pants and whatever is going on here. So, if you want to look  your best in pants today, take a page from history and one, get a pair of high-rise trousers; two, make  sure they work f

or your body type; and three, go to the alterations tailor and make sure pants have  enough of a fabric reserve to let them out in case you gain a few pounds or other things happen.  It's always easier to take pants in than to let them out, but you also can't take a pair of pants  that is three sizes too large and make it fit. It will just look awkward, and your pants and  your pockets will be in the wrong spot. Another thing vintage men wore better were dress shirts.  If you look around today,

most men wear shirts in either a solid white or blue for business wear. For  casualwear, sometimes you see these bright tones of turquoise or red or all black is also very  popular or maybe denim shirts. No, we don't have anything against denim shirts. We've made a  video about it. But, they have their time and place. If you take a closer look at the dress shirts that  were available to men back then, you'll probably be surprised. They weren't all just white and light  blue, but there were lots

of subtle tones, such as pastel, green, or yellow, peach, lavender, orange, and  so forth. Moreover, they had a lot more patterns, subtle micro patterns, checks, maybe little  houndstooth ones, interesting stripes. And sometimes, there was just a subtle contrast so from afar  it would look like a solid but, from up close, it revealed to be more interesting. Now, even though  many off-the-rack vendors don't sell shirts in a bright color palette, fortunately, we now have lots  of custom offerings

on the market. So, you can make sure your shirt wardrobe is more varied and not  just blue and white. Of course, the big question is: what's the ideal shirt selection for you? And  it depends on your lifestyle, your climate, and your taste. We created a video to tell you what  shirts you really need and try to guide you in the right direction, so you end up with something that  works for you. And no, it's not just about the color and the pattern. But, also about the collar shape.  Back then, com

panies like Arrow educated men and explained to them what type of collar would work  well with their face. For example, if you have a big, round face, having a small collar will look odd or,  if you're very small head with a big collar, that's also off. Why? Well, a collar can accentuate your  feature or level it out. To learn more about what collar shapes work best for you, we got you covered  as well. Frankly, we have an extensive library about all things shirts. So, you'll find the answers  y

ou're looking for there and maybe, by the time you're done watching all of them, you love dressers  just as much as Daisy from "The Great Gatsby." [scene from "The Great Gatsby"] Daisy: "I've never seen such beautiful shirts before." Another reason vintage men looked good were they knew how to put together odd combinations. Today, it seems,  if you look at the Oscars or at big events, monochromatic outfits are often popular because  that's probably what their style advisor told them to wear. Now

, keep in mind, back then, everything was more expensive, so men could only buy fewer items. If they wanted a different look, they had to  maybe take parts of one suit and combine it with another, thus leading to all sorts of interesting  combinations. For me, it's a pure joy to look at the old-fashioned illustrations, looking at different  textures, colors, patterns, and style men would wear back then and layer up. It has a depth, it has an  interest, and it's definitely an expression of their

personality. Now, if you're interested  to learn from those vintage illustrations, we created a book that does just that. No, we  don't have it printed. It's an e-book only. You can really tell men didn't just take the easy way  out and wear a pair of chinos in a solid tone with a solid polo shirt all day. They put a little more  effort into it and it paid off. The other thing men did back then was to actually have neckwear. Now,  neckwear never had a practical purpose or hardly ever it did. It

was always decorative. Back then, men  just accepted it as part of the general dress code. Today, most men associate wearing a necktie  with discomfort. I mean, back then, men even wore ties when they played tennis. Can you  imagine that? Yes, there were lots of neckwear options. They had wools. They had silks. They  had cottons. And later, rayon and nylon as those fibers became more popular. But, overall, the average man couldn't afford to have hundreds of ties in their closet, so it was impo

rtant to have something  that was versatile for them. They had ties for work, ties for play, and then, of course, bowties, evening  ties, and whatever they needed. Interestingly, going through these old photos and illustrations, you  never see men wearing bright, boldly colored ties in pink, green, or any other colors. Today, if you  look at TV hosts, for example, they always have these bright orange, yellow, red ties that really  stand out and it's almost too much contrast and, sometimes, just

glaringly bright. Now, even if you  compare vintage tie wearers to modern wearers, you'll notice a difference, and it is the size of  the knot. Today's ties are often very thick and it's not the fabric that's thicker necessarily, but  the interlining between the fabric. So, if you tie a knot today with a regular tie, the smallest knot  is an Oriental knot or a Four-in-Hand knot and, even then, the knot is quite big. Back in the  day, the interlining was thinner. So, if you wanted a thinner knot

with your collar or if that  was your style, you could get that result. If you wanted a bigger knot, then you went with a Double  Wincer or a Balthus for example. That being said, if you don't know how to tie a tie, we have a  series of the most common ones, how to tie them. Very easy step-by-step. Now, looking back for some  vintage ties, there were plenty of ugly ties. Not everything from the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and 70s was  great, but I think men had a better understanding of choosing the rig

ht tie for the rest of  their wardrobe and their face and collar shapes. But, it wasn't just about ties. Men also wore  scarves or mufflers that were decorative or maybe a handkerchief or an ascot. I mean,  just think about the last time you saw a man wearing a neckerchief on the street. I can't.  Maybe, sometimes, you'll see someone that wears an ascot. But, even that happens only once every blue moon. However, the men who wear an ascot today definitely stand out and people notice right away.

Why? Well, it's unusual and, if someone wears an ascot, chances are they do so with confidence and it  automatically gives them an aura that other people don't have. If you're interested in upping your  neckwear game, we have many tutorials ranging from "How to Tie an Ascot" to "12 Essential Ties Every  Man Should Have." Don't let Fred have all the fun. [scene from "Scooby-Doo"] Fred: "You know, throughout the years, a lot of people have asked me, "Fred, why the scarf?" Fred: "And I always tell

them the same thing, "Why don't you mind your own in f*cking business, pal?"" Of course, one of the most obvious reasons  vintage men looked better is that they wore hats. Today, most men don't wear a formal, brimmed hat  anymore. They maybe wear a baseball cap or a beanie when it's cold outside, but not a bowler hat or  a fedora or a homburg hat. Now, why did men stop wearing hats? We got a video dedicated just to that  question and you can watch that here. Now, if men today decide to wear a ha

t, oftentimes, they don't  quite look like Humphrey Bogart wearing a fedora. Why is that? Well, it starts with the fact that, back  then, there was a culture on hat wearing and people learned what to wear and what not to wear based  on how they looked. Today, rules of hat wearing are either unknown to people or maybe ignored. On one  hand, a hat can be a great personal style hallmark, but it can also be a detriment if worn incorrectly.  Finding a hat that works for you is related to your body ty

pe and face shape, and we'll walk you  through step-by-step how you can find the best hat for you. Yet another thing vintage men wore much  better than modern ones are overcoats or outerwear. A very popular jacket these days for cold winters  is a Canada Goose down jacket. But, in fact, it's not nearly as warm as my heavy overcoats. And no, they  don't have any down. They're just made from heavy, durable wool. Now, if you buy an overcoat today and  it says it is heavy, it usually means about 18

or 19 ounces in weight. Back then, they were like 30,  36 ounces in weight. So, almost double. Yes, we're dealing with climate change, but there's plenty  of places where it gets still really, really cold outside. And a heavy overcoat material doesn't  just keep you warmer, it also drapes better and looks better and that's the reason they just look  better when they wear an overcoat than when we wear a down jacket today. Because more people wore overcoats back then, there was a greater variety.

There were daywear varieties, there were formal or less formal, and there were evening overcoats. Trying to find an evening overcoat today is really difficult.  Even tailors may not know what to make for you because none of their other customers ever request  such a garment from them. Also, the fabrics spectrum often were made from yarn with multiple colors in  them that allowed you to combine it with various different colored items, but it always seemed to  work. Now, overcoats today are often

black, charcoal, or navy. All solid. That's it. I know today, sometimes,  you can find overcoats with zippers and hoods. Now, if you just look at the classic varieties, such as  an ulster, a paletot coat, and a covered coat and there are many others, you will look dapper. Yes, if you  watch some other videos, you'll probably know I just can't get over overcoats. What? I can do puns? [Preston, from behind the camera] "We'll workshop that one." Last but not least, I think vintage men wore pajamas,

sleepwear, and robes much better than modern men. I mean, today, people wear a hoodie and sweatpants at home. Back then, they had these really cool-looking pajamas in bold patterns or maybe a dressing gown or a nice robe with some  Albert slippers. Were they comfortable? Absolutely. Were they warm and cozy? Yes. It just looked so much better than sweatpants. And yes, I know you could say, "Well, no one will ever see me in my sleepwear."  And you may be right. But, it's a general mindset and I

think, if you take care of yourself and  invest in yourself, you'll show up differently, even when people can't see you. When I browse  through old-fashioned magazines, I notice there's quite a few ads for sleepwear, for slippers, and  garments of that kind. Now, you think about it, if you spend about a third of your life or more  in bed or in your bedroom, you might as well invest in that type of clothing. When you watch  old films or even a moderate period drama, like "Downton Abbey," you'll

see that people just looked  better in their sleepwear. I mean, just imagine if Lord Grantham here would have worn a pair of  underwear with a T-shirt. It wouldn't look nearly as good. Not sure where to start? Of course, we have  a guide to sleepwear for you. Now, I know we already got ten things covered. But, as a bonus item, so to  speak, I think men wore watches better back then. Typically, they were smaller. They weren't just  all metal and flashy and bling. But, they often wore more dress w

atches. But, no, that wasn't the  only watch they wore. Think of the Reverso watch, which came up and we got a whole video dedicated  to that watch here. So, men knew they needed different items for different occasions. Whereas, today,  I think men often times wear their Rolex, no matter if they show up for Black Tie or if  they're in their flip-flops on the beach. For every occasion, there was a different watch and vintage  men used to treat a watch like an heirloom that was passed down in thei

r family for years to come. It was less of a status symbol that it is today. Frankly, I believe that many men today try to use  a watch to flex or to use it as a status symbol, rather than as something that is part of their  entire outfit. Hopefully, we've showed you that the style of the past isn't gone forever and it can be  yours with a bit of effort, creativity, and know-how. So, my outfit today isn't truly vintage. I think  the tie is vintage, but it's not 100 years old or anything like tha

t. So, the jacket, I thrifted. It was custom-made. It has this nice window pane on dark blue. It's a little more casual because it  has lighter-colored buttons and elbow patches. I definitely went for a 1930s-ish look with a pair  of off-white flannel trousers with a fishtail back and suspenders. These suspenders are a bit whimsical and feature dogs. But, they're interesting because, in the back, they have leather tabs. In the front,  woven ones in brown and white, which are continued to my sh

oes, which are Allen Edmonds spectators,  Model Bel Air, in brown and white. My socks are two-tone socks. They're solid in like white and  navy, so it picks up the color of the blazer, brought in contrast between the shoes and the  pants, and thus, tying the outfit together. My shirt is a pastel lavender one as men would wear in decades gone by. From afar, it looks like a solid, but it has a subtle herringbone pattern.  I'm combining it with a vintage motif tie and a boutonniere, which also pick

s up a tone of the  shirt. I skipped the pocket square because I felt like, between a windowpane pattern, the flower,  and the tie, I already had enough going on. The cufflinks are a pair of vintage, enamel cufflinks  that are lighter in color and, even though there is no yellow in other parts of the outfit, it's  very close to the color of the windowpane. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪