[Music] hey how's it going guys this is
a 2003 BMW 5 series and it's been sitting in a garage for 3 years as you can see the
entire car is covered in a thick layer of dust and there are spiders
living behind the steering wheel at a glance the car looks like well it's it's in decent condition so why
is this car sitting I found this car on a used car website for just $1,150 that sounds like an
absolute bargain for a car that was originally sold for $100,000 today 20 years later the
average a
sking price one of these cars is around $55,000 but the owner is only asking
$1,150 looking at the description says the car has a Bloon head gasket and a flat battery
finding a car like this raises questions for many people like how expensive it is to fix a
car like this where can you buy the parts from are these DIY cars so if you have any of these
questions then this video is for you because I'm on my way to buy this car and that is where
you guys join the journey and there is the car wow
headlights are all faded that's an
easy fix front windows open that could be a bad window regulator the condition of
the body panels looks really good good Reflections on the paint everything
looks original good beige leather interior wow that's a classic BMW interior
all right that's enough looking it is time to meet the owner all right I spoke
with the owner and he was happy to negotiate and I just bought the car for
$725 now that's what I call a bargain I called in a tow truck and he's
here
already so it is time to take this car home after a long drive the kai is home taking
a walk around the car the front bumper is hit right on the parking sensors good brand new tires
looking at the interior there are no scratches on the w panels no FedEd letters on the buttons
everything seems to be in original condition the only thing I see broken in this interior
is this air vent which is very easy to replace speaking of replacing if you look under the
hood the oil filter the air fi
lter cabin air filters they are all easy to get to there's
your alternator there's your ignition coils and spark plugs there's your fuel injectors
everything is easy to get to so so regular maintenance in this car is something anyone
can do at home just to show you that this is definitely a DIY friendly car and now I'm
going to connect the car to a car battery so we can check the car's Electronics
okay the wipers work so let's try the key and the car is back to life the display is good no d
ead pixels we have 196,000
km that's about 120,000 Mi lights work 10 signals they work got some dead pixels on
the radio people would love a photo with a Kaa but everything else works the fan works electric steering column that works electric windows
that works that works that works okay that doesn't work so need
new window regulator there electric [Applause] mirrors they work interior lights they
work sunroof works electric memory seats that works electric passenger seat okay that doesn't
work you can see the SE
is twisting but that's an easy fix and the only other thing I found broken in the car is the
adjust for the headlight level but that's an easy fix as well so let's plug in a scan tool to
the car and see if the computers having issues all right the scan is done and we have a few
issues the instrument cluster has four issues tank Sensor 2 is faulty that is the sensor
for the fuel gauge terminal 15 voltage Supply that is the ignition switch EGS signal line
Disturbed th
at is the transmission computer and the last one is the ABS computer well this
one is easy when you turn on the ignition to start the car the instrument clust is
communicating with the fuel sensor to know the fuel level and with the computers to
do a safety [Music] check but when you have a dead battery or one that is getting weak the
instrument cluster can communicate with any of these sensors and computers so that's why
you have these errors next we have an airbag fault same reason again
parking
sensors have two codes we have two bad transducers those are are the damage
parking sensors on the front bumper the radio has one code transport mode active
that means all the active systems like the remote key has been turned off to save
the battery the body control module has six codes not enough voltage for the electric
monitors and finally the immobilizer well the same reason again so there's nothing wrong
with the c computers this guy just needs a new battery so let's get to i
t when replacing a
car battery you remove the negative terminal [Music] [Applause] first and then on the new battery you install
the negative terminal last so you won't short out the positive terminal on the car's chassis
and the battery is done all right the next thing you want to check before you start
the car is the coolant and it is complete complely empty and we have coolant residue
everywhere now that tells you there's been a leak so all you can do for now is just
add new coolant mov
ing on to the engine oil the oil level is full and there is no
sign of coolant in oil that is interesting now there are a few more things you have to
check before you start a car like this that's been sitting like checking for stuck piston
rings and I have done all that but I'll show them in the next video because now it's time
to start this car for the first time after 3 years all right things are looking
good no startup rattles there's no engine [Applause] knocking no coolant leak so far
no white or blue smoke coming out of the
tail p P but I can certainly hear a small misfire you guys hear that that is a misfire but everything else is looking
good so let's go for a test drive okay the power steering is
very smooth no binding now when you test drive a car like this you want
to get the car up to a decent speed to make sure the transmission is going
through all the gears without slipping well I can feel the gear changes are
very smooth and so is the ride now this is why you
buy a BMW 5 series
The Ride is really good nice and stable the brakes feel strong doesn't
pull to a side no vibrations in the steering wheel and even after
a decent drive the car is not overheating either so not bad at all for
$725 so let's go home and check on the head [Music] gasket okay that's the coolant
leak I was talking about that's a tiny crack on the coolant tank and if you
listen you can hear the coolant is boiling that's because when there's a leak the
cooling system can't hold
the pressure so the boiling point of the coolant drops below
the operating temperature of the engine so the coolant starts to boil so this is normal but
the problem is a bad head gas can also do this so before you can check the head gasket you need to
fix the leak so let's get to it first you remove the bleeder screw then remove all the horses
attached to the tank unplug the coolant level sensor remove the old tank install the new tank
connect everything back together reinstall the beder s
crew and the tank is done all right now
we need a radiator pressure tester kit like this to see if the system is holding pressure so first
you add in some coolant then attach the tester to the tank pump the system up to about 15 psi like
that and then check for leaks and look what I just found the water pump is leaking too so
you need a new water pump as well and you start with removing the fan for this
you need a fan clutch wrench satellite like this you use one range to loosen the
fan wh
ile using the other to hold the fan pulley and then move the fan out of the way now
remove all the horses attached to the fan shroud so you can remove the fan shroud now while I have
easy access I'm going to replace the thermostat as well so remove the lower and upper radiator
hes from the thermostat remove the bolts that hold the thermostat in place unplug the electrical
connection then with a little pull the thermostat comes right out to remove the water pump first
you loosen the water pu
mp pulley remove the DK cap on the tensioner pulley release the tension
on the serpentine belt like that move the pulley out of the way then remove the nuts on the water
pump thread two Bolts from the thermostat into the extraction holes on the water pump housing
like that and the water pump comes right out that noise is the bad bearing
seals so this water pump is definitely bad after cleaning the old gasket
Material off the mountain surface and lubricating the oing with silicon
paste you
can slide in the new water pump and then to it down to 10 Newton M now before you install the new
thermostat it is best to use some gasket maker on the mountain surface
for a better seal and then tighten the bows to 10 Newton M then put the water
pump pulley back on put the belt back on plug the electrical connection back
on reinstall the upper and lower radiator hoses put the tension and P dust
capab back on put the fan shroud back on reattach the coolant horses
to the fan shroud reinstal
l the fan attach the coolant tank back on
the fan Shrout and you are ready to refill the cooling system so first you
remove the two bleeder screws then you start adding coolant into the tank when the
coolant start coming out of each bleeder hole you put the screws back on and then
with the fan on and the heater on the max heat you start the engine and leave it running at
operating temperature for about 5 minutes after that you shut off the engine wait for it to cool
down and then you can c
an top up the tank to the correct level and you are done and now you can
properly check the head gasket now for those who are new to fixing cars the engine of a car is
a two-piece design on the bottom half you have the engine block also known as the crank Cas
which houses the combustion Chambers and the Pistons and on the top half you have the engine
head which houses the intake and exhaust valves and the purpose of the head gasket is to
seal the engine head to the engine block so it has to
seal the combustion Chambers
as well as the oil and coolant passages that run between the head and the block so
when you have a failure in the head gasket the symptoms you see varies depending on where
it fails so if the failure is between oil and coolant passages then you can have oil in the
coolant or coolant in the oil that looks like a milkshake like this but we already checked
the oil and the coolant and as you can tell they are clean all right if the failure
is between a coolant pas
sage and outside or between an oil passage and outside or
between a combustion chamber and outside then you're going to have oil leaks
or coolant leaks or carbon deposits on the engine block near the head gasket so I'm
going to use a boroscope camera to check the block all the way around and as you can tell we don't seem to have
any leaks on the Block either all right if the failure is between combustion chamber
and a coolant passage then you have combustion gases leaking into the cooling s
ystem so
to check that you need a combustion gas leak tester kit like this the kit comes
with a test tube and a bottle of testing liquid you set up the test tube on the
coolant tank add testing liquid to the tube then start the engine and get it
to the operating temperature and then you squeeze the bulb to suck air
through the liquid this liquid can change its color from Blue to Yellow
when exposed to combustion gases like this but as you can tell there's no difference in
color so there's
no failure between the combustion Chambers and the coolant passages either so the
coolant overflowing us so earli is just coolant vapers expanding from the boiling because the
system couldn't hold the pressure because of the leaks we had in the system all right if the
failure is between a combustion chamber and an oil passage then you have Rising pressure in
the cran case and the last failure you can have is between two nearby combustion Chambers this
allows the combustion gases to pass in
between the chambers so you can have engine misfiring
with no trouble codes and this engine is misfiring so to check these two possibilities you have to do a compression test using a
compression tester and a cylinder leak down tester you start with with removing
all the ignition coils and all the spark plugs then remove the fuse for the fuel pump which is F 22 so you don't have any
fuel coming into the engine as you crank now this engine has 10.2 to1
compression ratio multiply that by atmo
sphere Eric pressure the minimum rating
you should see is 149 PSI so thread the compression gauge into the spark plug hole
and then crank the engine six times to see the rating cylinder number [Music] one 195
PSI W that is really good cylinder number [Music] two 190 psi cylinder number three 190 PSI again cylinder number four 190 psi cylinder number five 195 psi cylinder number six 100 95 PSI now that is very good
very consistent compression ratings on all six cylinders moving on to the
lea
k down test first you zero out the tester and then using a screwdriver and a
break bar get each piston to the top dead center in the compression cycle like that and
then attach the tester to the spark plug hole to see the reading cylinder number one no leak
cylinder number number two no leak cylinder number three there's no leak cylinder number four
there's no leak cylinder number five no leak cylinder number six there's no leak and that
is 100% confirm that this guy does not have bad head
gasket and boy do I feel good so there
you go that is unbelievable so it seems someone misdiagnosed this car but now the question is
why is this car misfiring all right let's start with the basics using a chip scan tool that you
can use with your phone all right for an engine to fire properly the air to field ratio should
be 14.7 to1 so your engine has a mass air flow sensor to measure the air flow going into
the engine and an oxygen sensor to measure the air that's been used for the combus
tion
this car has two oxygen sensors one for the bank one the first three cylinders and one
for the bank two the last three cylinders so using these three sensors the computer can
control the fuel delivery at the injectors at the correct ratio this is called the
short-term fuel trim so if you select that you can see the computer is
adding 27% more fuel to keep the engine running so either you have more air
coming in through a vacuum leak so the computer is trying to compensate
that by add
ing more fuel or you have a bad sense of giving wrong information to
the computer so let's check the sensors first all right a good oxygen sensor should
rate between 0.1 volts and 0.9 volts when operating so we have that and as a
rule of thumb a good mass airflow sensor should read close to 2 G of air per
second per 1 lit of engine displacement at 1,000 RPM so this 3 L engine should
have close to 6 G of air at 1,000 RPM so we have that and then
close to 12 G at 2,000 RPM we have that and t
hen close to 18 G at 3,000 [Applause] RPM we have that so the response
is good within the entire rail range as well so the sensors are
fine but notice when the rails go up the fuel trims come down now
that is a classic V vacuum leak sign when more air is coming through
the mass airflow sensor the air coming through the leak become less noticeable so
there's no need to add more fuel so this gu definitely has a vacuum leak so to find the
leak I'm going to use a smoke machine but most people
don't have these machines so
to do this at home first you want to get an empty paint can like this with the lid
I'm using a jar that is heat proof just so I can demonstrate this better and then
drill two holes on the lid install two B fittings attach some tube into
the fittings fill the jar with wood chips and charcoal light a fire to create smoke and then as you blow into one tube the smoke comes out of the other
and there's your very own smoke machine all right after removing the mass air
flow
sensor you can blow smoke into the intake Boot and right away we have smoke coming out
of the intake boot so that is one leg and it is also coming from underneath the intake
manifold as well it's kind of hard to see where the smoke is actually coming from
so you have to remove the upper intake boot and then this little valve called
the diesel valve and then the lower intake boot move the dipstick out of the way so now
you have enough room to look around and look what I just found the
oil return line on the cran
Cas ventilation valve is broken look at that this house is 20 years old and you can see the rubber
is sort of starting to melt so guess what it is time for new ventilation well with all new hoses
and you start off by removing the dip stick then unplug all the electrical connections undo the
bolts on the wiring box move that out of the way remove the idle a control
valve remove the throttle body and now you have access to the crank
Cas ventilation valve and the b
roken oil return line all right first you're going to
disconnect all the horses connected to the well now these hoses have Push locks
so you pinch the tabs like that and pull all right now you loosen the
cran case ventilation valve remove the lower hose get that out of the way
the upper hose has a Twist lock so you turn the hose 90° counterclockwise and
Pull and the crank is ventilation W is out now remove the old upper hose install
the new upper hose Slide the new ventilation valve into p
lace match up and turn the
upper hose 90° clockwise to Lo it in place then put the screws back in
Slide the new low hose in snap it in place remove the blind plug from the old
well install it on the new well install the new oil return line and you are
ready to put everything back together all right the throttle Bo is dirty so
with a little cleaning and with a new gasket you can put it back on and then tighten the bolts to 10 Newton
M now put the idle a control well back on move the wiring
box back into place and plug
all the connector test back in all right now remove the broken oil return line from the
dipstick connect the new oil return line to the dipstick put the dipstick back in reinstall
the lower intake boot put the DC back in install the new upper intake boot put the mass air
flow sensor back on put the airbox back together replace the remaining h on the intake
manifold so you can snap all the horses back into place now the purpose of the crank Cas
ventilation valve
is releasing the excess pressure inside the engine into the intake
manifold while returning any oil vapers back into the engine and since it is connected
directly to the W cover any leak on the Val cover like this may still cause a vacuum leak
so to fix the leak properly you need a new W cover gasket as well all right so first you
remove the cabin air filter then remove the ground ground wire unplug all the ignition
coils and then move the wiring handers out of the way then remove the igni
tion coils and
loosen the bolts that hold the Val cover in place and then with a little pull the
vow is out now this gasket is so old that it just crumbles so remove the old
[Applause] gasket and install the new gasket now this well covers ttin
to leak oil at the front where the head and the timing cover meat right
here so using a dab of gasket maker on the front gives you a better seal after
cleaning the mainting surface with some Degreaser put the well cover back on and
then talk it dow
n to 10 Newton M from middle out and you are done now let's see what we have well the field trims are
back to normal and the misfire is gone here's the before and this is how the car sounds now bearing like a kitten so now I can start
restoring the car and that brings us onto the most important question where to get the
parts from and how much do they cost well I only use OEM or genuine parts and I buy them
from online stores so the new w gasket $33 crank case ventilation valve $114 coolant
tank $40
thermostat $60 intake boot $22 and the water pump $47 now I'm going to replace few more things
in the car as preventive [Music] maintenance so a new radiator $160 new radiator horses including
genuine coolant $240 the oil pan gasket is leaking new gasket $122 power steering lines
are leaking new lines with the reservoir $74 transmission oil cooler lines are starting to
leak new lines $165 tiro DS have play on both sides New Roads including new boots $88 moving
on to the cosmetic r
epairs the windshield cow is cracking new cow $88 the windshield molding
is disintegrating new molding $28 new regulator for the front window $146 the door seal on the
driver side is cracking new door seal $112 seat based covers are damaged new covers $98 a new aen
for the dashboard is $160 but I found a used one from the junat for $30 new level adjusters for the
headlights $9 two new mold for the headlights $20 and finally there's filters in oil which I'm not
going to price out because tha
t is something all cast need so even with a few extra parts I ordered
for future repairs the total for me including the difference in exchange rates and shipping is
$1,949 at $725 purchase price of the car and $150 for the towing the total cost of buying and
properly restoring this car back to its original condition is only $2,824 the market value for
the car is around $5,000 so that's more than $2,000 in profit if I want to sell the car to a
buyer goes to show you that if you work on your
own car then you can drive any car you want and
I'll be restoring this car in a series of upcoming videos as always if you like the video
press that like button leave a comment down below let me know what you guys think
all the tools I used in the video as well as the links to my cool new MH are down
in the description so go check them out we have cool stuff for everyone and if
you want to see more DIY videos just like this one subscribe to the junky DIY guy
Channel and I'll see you in the
next one
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