Wild Iran: Capturing the Untamed | Extra Long Documentary

Iran - a mysterious land. A secret and exotic Persian culture, rich in the ancient traditions of literature and trade. A country of magnificent monuments, modern cities and astonishing natural beauty. Home to a surprising wilderness, of wild habitats that look European and others that feel distinctly African. [bear growls, boar squeal] Iran is a crossroads for animals from different continents, making it a unique refuge for a rich diversity of wildlife. This is the story of a journey into the he

art of the unknown Middle East, to reveal wild animals and wild places that must be protected. Benny Rebel was born in Iran. He left his native country at the age of 19, and is now a renowned wildlife photographer and conservationist in Germany. Benny is returning to Iran for the first time in 20 years to rediscover the country of his childhood memories. His aim is to explore, document and raise the profile of Iran's little-known wildlife. With the help of technology, he plans to capture images

of unusual and rare creatures. For the next six weeks, Benny will explore a country three times the size of France. He's traveling with his Iranian friend Hamid Naziri, a wildlife filmmaker and expert in the field. [they speak Farsi] From the capital, Tehran, they will travel to the dry and arid south of the country. For Benny, this is a journey with a serious mission. I would like to take some photographs of the unknown wildlife of Iran to show the people which treasure they have in their own c

ountry, to mobilize them to protect these old beauties of nature. They will need to be self-sufficient on this trip and have packed all essentials. Iran still has little tourism and more than half the country is arid scrubland and desert. But it does have 19 national parks and over a hundred nature reserves. This vast wilderness used to be home to Asiatic lions and Caspian tigers, both now extinct. Benny's dream is to find an endangered leopard or cheetah. First stop is Haftad Qoleh National Par

k, close to Benny's old hometown, Arak. It's a good start. Benny has spotted two fluffy long-eared owl chicks. As a child, Benny used to climb here and can remember some of the rough pathways through the rocks. If he is careful and quiet, he should be able to get quite close to the naive chicks. Small rodents and reptiles live among the rocks. Perfect food for hungry owls. This skink actually had a lucky escape. It only sacrificed its tail to the owls. A natural break allows it to drop off, to b

e left as a wriggling decoy. The lost part of the tail will regrow again within weeks. The young owls have retreated into the safety of a cave. The owls are young and very confident, and Benny quickly gets to work to make the most of this chance. [camera clicks] [camera clicks] The young owls are just starting to grow the distinguishing tufts that give them their name. There are eight different species of owls in Iran and there is ample food for them all. [camera clicks] [camera clicks] These sm

all rodents look like hamsters, but they are in fact pikas. They are busy gathering leaves and grasses that they dry in stacks in the sun and then store in their burrows for food and bedding. This can be dangerous work. Kestrels are on the prowl. [kestrel calls] Their camouflage and knowledge of the rocky crevices puts the pikas at an advantage. The rocky terrain in the south of the country is harsh and inhospitable. Few animals can live in this hot and sparse landscape. The spur-thighed tortois

e is a robust survivor that has lived here for centuries. Its leathery skin and hard shell protects it against the heat and the many thorny plants. Benny knows that the tortoise is likely to head for the wild flowers and positions himself accordingly. [camera clicks] These blooms and leaves are a soft treat, high in moisture that the tortoise can store in his bladder. It's hard to imagine that, for a short period every year, this arid landscape is transformed into a sea of flowers. [camera click

s] This rocky land was once a Garden of Eden. [man sings a traditional Persian song] Old stone tablets inscribed 300 years ago by order of the Persian emperors are testament to a different age. The eloquent poems of these mighty rulers tell of a once rich diversity of plant and animal life. The old kings have found a paradise in this place, but, unfortunately, they have destroyed it. The old wildlife of this place is nearly gone because of their hunting skill. Increased agriculture and growing s

ettlements have led to a decline in large animals. But smaller creatures, like the agama lizard, are still abundant. These cold-blooded lizards thrive in the dry heat and can tolerate temperatures higher than most reptiles. They are solar-powered and bask on the rocks to absorb the sun's heat. But Benny is still keen to find some of the larger and rarer inhabitants of this area. Somewhere out there live cheetahs and leopards. Animals like these Persian ibex are surely perfect prey for big cats.

These nimble-footed creatures are the ancestors of our domestic goats and they are perfectly adapted to their perilous rocky lifestyle. Benny needs to be well-camouflaged so as not to scare them off. Both males and females have impressive horns and use them in battle to determine their place within the herd. Traditionally, ibex have featured strongly in Persian art, a symbol of strength, elegance and beauty. Once shot for their fur, meat and horns, they are now protected and in the national park

s their numbers are on the increase once more. [camera clicks] [crickets chirping] But urban concentrations are growing and sprawling into the deserts. Isfahan is an ancient city that in the 16th century was the capital of Persia. It has grown from a modest oasis dwelling to become the third largest city in Iran and home to several million people. The ancient Mogul emperors were well known for their passion for gardens, and still today there are many green places. The city square is one of the b

iggest in the world - a reminder of the wilderness outside. Old and new seem to blend together effortlessly in modern Iran, but the ancient ways still live in the people's hearts. The Imam Mosque is a masterpiece of Persian architecture and a sacred place for the Persian people. Birds are a sign of good luck and people maintain a close relationship with them. Persian Highflyer pigeons are bred for their aesthetic appearance and endurance flying. Just after dawn, the pigeon breeders drive their p

rize birds out of the cages to showcase their aerial skills. For Benny, this is a trip back to his childhood, when he used to raise these birds himself. Although gambling is illegal in Iran, high bets are placed on the birds. Cars and even homes are at stake. The aim is to have as many pigeons as possible in the air for a set period of time. The winner is the breeder with the highest average flying time. The tumbling display is a specialty of this breed and has earned them the other name, Tumble

r pigeons. Each one of these birds is valued at a few hundred dollars. It's worth catching any strays. This man has spotted another man's prize pigeon, so he quickly puts his own birds into the air. He hopes that his flock will tempt the lone pigeon to join them. He was right. The strange bird joins his flock. Attracted by the offer of food, the flock lands again. And amongst them is the new pigeon. His plan has worked! The pigeon thief quickly puts his own mark on the kidnapped bird. Now it is

his property. All's fair in love and war. The freshly acquired pigeon will not be allowed to fly until it has been well-integrated into the new flock. Its wings are tied with string to prevent it from escaping home. Pigeon stealing is common in Iran, so this breeder safeguards his property with surveillance cameras. In the meantime, the true owners of the kidnapped bird have noticed that one of their prize pigeons is missing. It's a painful loss. Not all missing birds are stolen. Some fly so hig

h that they can't find their way home again. [camera clicks] [camera clicks] Benny takes a few last pictures for old time's sake, but it's time to track down wilder creatures. [camera clicks] In the far south of the country, near the city of Shiraz, lies the Bamu National Park. It's home to the sand fox and the elusive leopard that Benny longs to see. Tourists are not common here, so the animals are shy. He'll have to be lucky to spot big cats, but with expert help he can find other fascinating

creatures. Benny has been joined by a local snake-expert, Ali Salemi, who knows exactly where to look for reptiles. This arid, rocky terrain is perfect habitat for snakes. [they speak Farsi] During the day, the animals are likely to be hiding under rocks and boulders. Benny wants to raise the profile of snakes, that are much hated in Iran. He hopes to find a snake that will win the hearts of the people. Another large boulder. The snake specialist lifts it carefully to reveal a surprise. [they sp

eak Farsi] This isn't an earthworm, it's a tiny snake. This miniature snake isn't a youngster. At 30 centimeters, it's a fully grown black-headed ground snake. It isn't poisonous, feeds entirely on insects and is strong enough to overpower a scorpion. Snakes big and small are symbols of evil in Iran and most locals believe that only a dead snake is a good snake. But Benny and Ali are delighted by this exquisite creature, a real ambassador for snake kind. Nature reserves are a safe refuge for sna

kes. They are home to over 70 species, of which less than half are venomous. One of them is the curiously named Montpellier snake. [hissing] Two meters long and with poison fangs, this is a formidable hunter. Pikas are always on the lookout for predators and neighbors warn each other at the slightest sign of danger. Snakes are one of their main enemies. But today will not be a good hunting day for snakes. The peace and quiet is about to be disrupted. Benny has a plan. He is assembling the parts

of a remote-controlled helicopter that can carry a small onboard camera. There have been some engineers in Germany helping me to build this system and actually these is unique, it's built for me. So you can't buy it as it is anywhere. So it's like my child. Flying this octocopter requires a lot of skill and technology. A special pair of glasses allows Benny to look through the camera's viewfinder. [beeping] This is the helicopter's first test flight, to see whether its fragile navigation system

has survived transportation. [whirring] This delicate, bizarre-looking machine looks like an alien spaceship in this stark landscape. The helicopter has passed the flying test but it may have noise issues! A praying mantis seems to be one of the few animals that is undisturbed by the commotion. It carries on with the business of ambushing passing shield bugs. Tonight will be peaceful, but tomorrow Benny plans to try again. Dawn the next day and the ants are already busy in the early morning suns

hine. The tiny creatures assiduously carry grasses and seeds into their larders. Benny has been busy too. He is hoping to get close to some of the more robust mountain residents - the mouflon, or wild sheep. There isn't much cover and little chance of hiding the equipment. The vigilant animals have already spotted the photographer. All eyes are on Benny. The males keep a safe distance. One animal is particularly nosey. It was probably once a domestic animal that has now joined the wild herd. The

spectators seem ready for take-off! In other parts of the world, Benny has managed to get some unusual animal pictures with this equipment. But will it work here? [whirring] The only shots he manages to get with his flying camera are of the nosey animal that seems unfazed. [camera clicks] The strange machine makes the other animals very nervous. The octocopter lands and Benny has to come down to earth with a bump too. Time to pack up. Benny is disappointed, but failures come with the job. To us

e the octocopter in Iran is very difficult because in Iran there is always windy and the animals are very shy and they run away. Benny and his companion are not down-hearted, they still have big plans. They're off to the hot southern part of the country. This is where they have the best chance of finding big cats, particularly cheetah. But they have a long journey ahead of them. Bamu National Park wasn't always a nature reserve. Old gravestones reveal that people still lived here until 150 years

ago. The inhabitants of this area probably left because they couldn't find enough food in the sparse landscape. All the large prey was poached out of existence. Large mammals were left with little food too, and many, like the tiger, were hunted to extinction. But today, paramilitary troops are responsible for protecting the animals. Iran's national parks are guarded by an anti-poaching squad that are dedicated to the task. The areas these men need to patrol are vast and their equipment is basic

, but their presence is making a difference. [speaks Farsi to radio operator] [radio operator answers in Farsi] They use confiscated motorbikes to patrol the park and pay for petrol out of their own pockets. Less and less poachers are able to operate now. This network of trained park rangers is ensuring that rare and endangered animals have a chance to recover and survive here. [they speak Farsi] Antelope and other ungulates are popular trophy for hunters and some illegal hunting still occurs. B

ut now there is a growing conservation movement within the country. Not least because of the efforts of men who will even risk their lives to fight the poachers. Hunting is a long-standing and ancient tradition of the Persian Empire. Historical carvings and mosaics decorate palace walls, depicting the mass slaughter of wild animals. But for 3,000 years, the Persian rulers have also created more peaceful havens, like the splendid Gardens of Eden. Places to study and seek inspiration. The word "pa

radise" is derived from the Persian language and is used to describe a man-made oasis created in the desert. The elegant gardens created by the Mogul emperors are inspiration for modern gardens in Iran today. Flowerbeds are cared for with great pride in Iran's cities and they are mini-havens for smaller wildlife. The gardens are also used for growing fruit and vegetables. The multiple fruits of the wild mulberry are particularly popular, because they are juicy and sweet. They are known as Shahto

ot, or the king's mulberry. These tasty treats are eagerly collected and consumed on the spot. They are a welcome addition to the menu of the less well-off households. Some are taken home and dried to be eaten later. The colorful Persian gardens offer a peaceful retreat for all. Beyond the lush cities, vast sand dunes spread across southern Iran like the Sahara Desert. The wind creates dramatic sculptures out of the fine sand grains. And the desert heat creates mini-twisters that whirl across th

e land. [wind blusters] But nothing compares with the strength of the massive sandstorms that bury all life. [wind roars] The southern parts of Iran are hot and arid. The animals living here struggle to survive. A crested lark has found one of the few remaining pools of water. Others are quick to join. [insects buzzing] Hornets drink their fill. And butterflies put out their long mouthparts to probe for salt in the moist soil. The waterhole is alive with activity. A wasp fashions perfect balls f

rom the wet mud to build its nest. In the parched landscape, these pools are honeypots that attract all sorts of animals, even larger ones. This is where Benny needs to search for big cats. It looks like a fresh leopard track. So it might be from last night. This is very exciting news, so he decides to stake out the pool to capture images of any night-time visitors. He sets up a camera trap with an infrared motion-sensor. Animals visiting the pool at night will automatically trigger the device.

A final test to check that the camera is working and Benny retreats to wait. In the cooler temperatures of the night, many animals venture out of their hiding places. [frog croaks] Night-time sounds fill the air. [frog croaks] The phantom-like shape and glowing eyes of a hyena pass through the frame. A porcupine takes a leisurely drink. Sadly, no sign of the leopard from the night before. The journey must go on and Benny and Hamid now move into the eastern part of Iran to an area that was once p

art of the Old Silk trail. [camel grumbles] These vast stone deserts are home to Arabian camels or dromedaries. Their ancestors came from Arabia and Africa and played an important role in Iran's trade and history. Huge caravans of these sturdy camels carried heavy goods across the continent, bringing Islam from the Arabic world into the far east of Asia. Today, the camels are no longer used and are left to roam freely. This desolate area is also guarded by a park ranger and he is protecting a st

range and well-kept secret. It looks like the entrance to a mythical dragon's cave that is full of treasure and the remains of prey. Deeper into the cave and a closer inspection reveals treasure that looks more like campsite rubbish. How did these objects get to this remote place? A huge accumulation of bones confirms that the cave has been used for centuries by hyaenas and they have been collecting the rubbish too. An extraordinary behavior that still isn't understood. The bones however are an

important record of a carnivore in the area, and wild mouflon was definitely on the menu. The mouflon are characteristic animals in this rocky habitat. They are the ancestors of all domestic sheep and, indeed, they interbreed readily with each other. Their curved headgear has always fascinated Persian artists and craftsmen. In the past, their magnificent horns were turned into drinking utensils. The mouflon live in large herds that the males join during the mating season. The females give birth

often to two young and they are well protected within the safety of the herd. This is a secure life in a herd that is faithful to its traditional territory, and every mountain range in Iran has red sheep of a different color with slightly different horns. Benny would like to photograph some of this intimate behavior. But the herd are alert and ready to protect their youngsters. One bold animal allows Benny to approach. It is a promising photographic model. It is certainly not camera shy and Benn

y manages to capture some amazingly intimate images. [camera clicks] Benny is ready to end this photo-shoot but try telling that to the animal! Wildlife and the Persian culture have always been intimately entwined and the ancient monuments of Iran are testament to this relationship. Fifty kilometers to the north-east of Bamu National Park lies the ruins of a colossal palace complex. This is Persepolis, heart of the old Persian Empire. Lions and bulls symbolized the power of the empire. These ani

mals represented strength and freedom. These ruins are still alive with wildlife and have been a constant place of shelter for more than 2,500 years. Let us hope that the creatures living now and those set in stone survive as long again. Today, Benny is taking a break away from the desert heat. He is visiting a ranger station. He has heard about an orphan mouflon sheep there and is going to investigate. It may be his chance to get some really appealing shots. The young mouflon is only three week

s old and is called Bita. It was chased by poachers, who broke its back leg with a stick. The broken limb is now bound up. Little Bita was saved by rangers who intercepted the poachers. Now they hope to raise the young sheep with the help of a domestic foster parent, a domestic goat. [they speak Farsi] Benny is enchanted by the delightful youngster. The male goat watches as the orphan is introduced to one of his females. The young animal immediately tries to suckle from its foster mother. It's a

good start. The young mouflon is likely to survive and eventually be released back into the wild. The ranger keeps Bita busy, training her muscles, so she'll have a better chance of survival. It is hard to believe in this vast wilderness that living space might be an issue. But the more fertile areas have to be shared. The arid grasslands of Iran are also used by the people for grazing their domestic animals. The large herds of goats and sheep eat what little vegetation there is and leave littl

e for wild animals. The competition for food and water is intense, particularly during the hot summer months. Animals and people desperately seek out the last waterholes. [goat bells ringing] This precious natural resource originates in the high mountain ranges and it has to be shared too. The cold, clear water is efficiently channeled into a network of underground tunnels that for a thousand years have supplied the larger cities. On its subterranean journey, it remains fresh and cool, and emerg

es again in the heart of the city, as refreshing as when it was first released. Water plays a significant role in the Islamic religion. It's a sign of life, energy and happiness. Elegant pelicans decorate this ornamental garden. The large birds have had their wings clipped so they can't fly, but they are fed daily. The relationship between people and animals in Iran is a close and ancient one, but it isn't always just for pleasure. These towers are decorative, but others are more functional. Thi

s is a pigeon tower, over 20 meters high, dating back to the 17th century. This astounding architectural maze constructed of bricks and clay can house more than 10,000 pigeons. It's filled with a honeycomb of small roosts for the birds. The arched patterns and zig-zagged stones were to prevent snakes from climbing into the holes. The tower's design ensures that the droppings fall to the ground, without soiling any birds sitting below. The pigeon guano was traditionally collected and used as fert

ilizer on the fields. Today, artificial fertilizers have taken over and pigeon guano is no longer needed. The remaining towers are still preserved as historical monuments for tourists and visitors. Whilst thousands of such towers were constructed all over Iran for pigeons, there were other constructions, which were not intended specifically for the birds. Islamic mosques are sacred places of worship, but because pigeons are held in high esteem within Islam, the birds are permitted free reign eve

n here. [man sings a Persian prayer] According to the Holy Koran, it's a Muslim's duty to respect all life on Earth, including plants and animals. The religious philosophy that all living things form one big community, is also underpinned by the Islamic country's constitution. It encourages a respect of nature and guarantees, at least on paper, some protection of Iran's natural world. Benny's mission is to reinforce this philosophy. If he can raise awareness of Iran's unique wildlife, it will be

better protected. He has a tip-off that two very rare animals, a chinkara gazelle and the cheetah, are in the area. The Asiatic cheetah is now critically endangered. Once widespread across the continent, now less than 100 survive, only in Iran. Its prey, like these chinkaras, have been heavily decimated by hunters and their habitat overgrazed. This herd have spotted the cheetah, so the hunt is off. Benny is in luck. By the time he arrives, the cheetah has spotted another opportunity. The hare h

ad little hope of outrunning the fastest mammal on land. For Benny, this is an overwhelming privilege. Capturing images of one of the world's rarest big cats at such close quarters will be critical to the success of his mission. [camera clicks] Iran has lost most of its big cats. Lions and tigers are now extinct. Benny is determined that the cheetah should not follow in their steps. Benny savors the last magical moments of his encounter with this magnificent cat. This has fired his determination

to continue his quest to discover Iran's many natural habitats and wildlife, and to protect them. Benny has been tracking one of Iran's rarest animals - a big cat with a world population of less than a hundred. The Asiatic cheetah. This male has just brought down a hare. Last night, Benny had his first magical encounter with this impressive cat and he has returned to try and get some more photos. With a full stomach the cheetah seems content to let Benny creep closer. [cheetah growls, camera cl

icks] He knows it's important to read the animal's body language, but the cheetah shows no aggression. Benny tries to signal to the cat that he is no threat and the cheetah appears to acknowledge this gesture. [camera clicks] Benny closes the distance and so does the cheetah. This is as near as he dares to go, but it's perfect for Benny. [camera clicks] Powerful images of cheetah and other big cats play an important role in Persian art and literature. Animals feature in the stories of old and ar

e often used to symbolize human traits and characteristics. The Persian culture is still greatly influenced by its ancient scribes. This is the Tomb of Hafez, a revered 14th-century poet and one of the masters of the Persian language. [man sings traditional song] Even today, the people learn his poems by heart and use them as proverbs and sayings. [woman reads aloud] The lyrical prose brings the generations together. Hafez's vivid stories provide many with inspiration and answers to life itself.

But there are less conventional ways to learn about life and reveal your fortune. Benny is persuaded to discover his fate. He is told that his journey will be successful. That's great news for Benny! His journey takes him south-east to Bahram Gor, named after a fifth-century ruler with a passion for hunting. [kestrel calls] Today, this area is a protected reserve with a ranger station that is home to a pair of kestrels. The birds are wary. They are still hunted in Iran and their nests raided fo

r eggs that are sold to Arab sheiks. [kestrel calls] Falconry is a big sport there and the birds are worth vast sums of money. Benny has found another unusual visitor here. It's an immature Eurasian black vulture. The scruffy scavenger turns out to be a willing model and Benny decides to try out his 3D camera on the obliging bird. The two cameras side by side will create a 3D effect when the two pictures are merged. 3D photography is much more complicated than the normal photography, especially

if you take photographs of objects moving, like animals. And some of the animals are afraid of the both lenses in front because most predators got their eyes in front. So they think it's a predator. So it's better to talk to the animals with very, very easy and relaxed voice, so they are relaxed also and you can take the photographs. So it's much more complicated than the normal photography. [kestrel calls] Oblivious to the photo-shoot below, the kestrels continue to hunt between the telegraph p

oles, catching small prey like lizards. Protected by the rangers, this pair has nothing to fear. Benny has arranged to meet the rangers in the center of the reserve. Persian tradition requires the visitor to bring a small gift. Benny has brought along one of his 3D books, including the special glasses. The 3D pictures have the desired effect. The rangers are impressed. [they speak Farsi] Benny has taken many of his photographs in Africa, where wildlife is far more abundant than in Iran. Sadly, l

ions disappeared from Iran over 70 years ago. Today, more than 20 percent of Iran's mammals are endangered. Benny is impressed at the rangers' knowledge and they are in awe of his dedication and photographic skills. The meeting has gone well. They are happy to support his mission and help him photograph their own natural treasures. At the height of summer, the southern and eastern parts of Iran are arid and parched. It is a harsh climate with extreme heat and no more than 300mm of rain a year. T

he few remaining pools of water are starting to dry up. Benny and the ranger prepare for a hot, dry journey. More adapted to these extreme conditions is the desert monitor lizard. [motorbike engine splutters] [engine starts] And another special and rare grassland inhabitant is just a rickety motorbike ride away. It hides deep within the vast landscape and it can spot people from nearly a mile away. Thanks to the rangers, the last remaining animals of this critically endangered species have been

saved from extinction in the wild. It's an onager, or Persian wild ass. The horses are highly nervous. [camera clicks] But waiting patiently pays off in the end. The animals gradually come nearer. [camera clicks] The onager is now only found in Iran. These horses were once a favorite quarry of kings and emperors, and their population plummeted to around 100 animals. Thankfully, their numbers are slowly recovering and today there are an estimated 400. It's a privilege to catch a glimpse of these

rare animals. The onager is the fastest horse in the world and can run at 70 kilometers per hour in short bursts. They are hardy creatures and can travel for hours without tiring. The ranger continues with his patrol of the park. Just a dozen men guard the 4,000 square kilometer reserve of Bahram Gor. They have little equipment or resources, but are passionately committed to protecting their country's wildlife. In the heart of the desert, hidden within an oasis, is another of Iran's natural trea

sures. The country's oldest tree, a 4,000-year-old cypress. It's over 25 meters high, with a trunk nearly four meters in diameter. This tree is so important that it has its own dedicated tree warden, who checks it on a daily basis for signs of damage or disease. Benny lays his hands on what may be the oldest living thing in Asia. This natural monument has witnessed thousands of years of Persian history. [they speak Farsi] In ancient Persian culture, the cypress is a symbol of honesty and eternal

youth, known as the "Tree of Life". And still today, it has an irresistible attraction for both people and wild creatures. A planted hedge protects the roots from being damaged by footsteps. With luck, this living monument could live to provide shelter for another thousand years. In contrast, the deserts and arid grasslands appear less welcoming to life. But even here, small communities of people and their animals manage to survive. [goat bells ringing] The Qashqai nomads travel with their herd

s through the vast steppes. Goats are their most precious possessions. Every evening, all the family members get together to milk the animals. [goats bleating] Benny documents this traditional way of life. No one knows how long these ancient customs will be preserved. The Qashqai nomads now only spend the summer months roaming the grasslands. In winter, they prefer the comforts of the city. Their traditional lifestyle is changing and modern city influences are plain to see. [camera clicks] But m

any things are still done the old-fashioned way. Goat‘s milk is churned by hand to make yoghurt and cheese. Milk is a lifeline and these people make the most of it. The products made can be stored for months to provide the nomads with valuable food during lean times. Benny is fascinated by these ancient traditions. In Iran, the nomads are still treated as social outcasts and there is little interest in their customs. Back in the tents, the family heads test the quality of the goats' milk. This s

eems to be a good vintage. They are satisfied. The Qashqai have used this hostile habitat to great effect for generations. The little that grows here is just enough to sustain the livestock and their nomadic lifestyle prevents the land from being overgrazed. Benny is moving on. He is going to visit Shir Ahmad Wildlife Refuge. Here, there is a perfect observation platform for photography - an abandoned camel caravan stop off the Old Silk Route. The lodge is around 200 years old and has been renov

ated by the wildlife wardens. Elsewhere, many such buildings have been left to crumble, of no use to man but a small gift to nature. The mud and stone walls offer a shady refuge for birds. For Benny and Hamid, the derelict lodge is the perfect place to pitch their tent. Iran's national parks and wildlife refuges don't yet offer any accommodation for visitors. This is basic, no-frills camping with the most simple of facilities. But the view is worth it. And a small pool right in front of the lodg

e is likely to attract wildlife. The scenery is spectacular. A photographer's paradise - clear sunsets and beautiful, undisturbed grassland. It might be a cool night as the temperature drops, but it will be peaceful. Early the next morning, Benny gets into position. Within the dark shadows of the building, he is invisible to the animals outside and there is plenty of space and shade. Now, all he has to do is wait. [Benny] It's really luxury to be here. I've seen other places where mosquitoes bit

e you, and dirty, wet and hot. So, this is a very good place to wait for animals. But the animals here are less numerous and timid compared to those Benny has photographed in African parks. Wildlife photography in Iran requires a lot of patience. At last, there is activity at the waterhole and Benny is ready. They are Persian gazelles. Large herds of these elegant animals once roamed the steppes of Iran. But mass slaughter over generations means they are now rare and endangered. Today, it's unus

ual to come across large numbers of these gazelles. But Benny is lucky and two young males test their strength against each other. [camera clicks] Conservation efforts are under way to ensure the survival of these last herds. [camera clicks] It is reassuring to see so many youngsters and a group that are confident, healthy and obviously breeding. [camera clicks] Gazelles play a major role in Persian art and literature. Their gracefulness and elegance is a symbol of female beauty and has inspired

many a romantic poem. [camera clicks] Benny is distracted by a splash of color on the open grassland - European rollers. In Iran, these insect-eaters are still abundant. [camera clicks] They are panting to cool down in the midday heat. They are nesting in cavities in the clay walls of the old lodge. [camera clicks] The gazelles have come down to the waterhole. They are particularly cautious. There could be predators lurking here. A venomous viper. Although they are not after the gazelles, it pa

ys to be careful. The snake is over a meter long and powerful. [snake hisses] Beyond the pool, the dry grassland gives way to more bushy scrub. This habitat attracts smaller and more numerous grassland specialists. An army of migratory locusts are gathering force. Large swarms of these insatiable insects can form undetected in the desert and travel en mass to ravage surrounding farms. Swarms can contain millions, even billions, of individuals, and they will strip a field within minutes. But in s

mall numbers, they are no trouble and for Benny they are a simply another delightful wildlife attraction. Locusts and grasshoppers are true survivors in the harsh desert, but they too have their predators. Bizarre but perfectly camouflaged forms have evolved to blend into the surroundings and hide in the scrub. Tehran, the capital of Iran. The name means "warm place" and indeed it is. This city of eight million inhabitants is surrounded by hot deserts and rugged mountains. The green parks provid

e relief from the harsh landscape. In many parks and markets the old tradition of keeping goldfinches in cages is still alive today and these colorful birds delight visitors with their song. [birdsong] Throughout Iran, these little birds bring color and song to the hectic city life. For the birds, it's a very different life, a far cry from their natural habitat. Tehran is the pulsating heart of the country. It's the cultural and business center of Iran. The city's population is growing daily. Th

e hustle and bustle of city life leaves many with a yearning for the tranquility of nature. And some find it in their own gardens. [birds twittering] Those who can afford to, create their own little pieces of paradise. [bees buzzing] Hassan Solemani is a businessman with a passion - he keeps bees. With over a dozen hives, the businessman spends much of his spare time looking after them. The smoke calms the bees, allowing him to open the hive without getting stung. Beekeeping has a long tradition

in Iran. The Islamic Koran specifically mentions bees as assiduous and valuable creatures. It describes how they eat from every fruit and that from their bodies comes a drink of varying colors with healing properties to man. The liquid gold produced by the bees is seen as a precious gift from God. Hassan's family use the thick honey to sweeten their tea. [they speak Farsi] Also the mosques are surrounded by green gardens and refreshing fountains. [call to prayer] According to the Koran, all men

must treat other creatures with respect and dignity. Before Islam was introduced to Iran, religion had a more fiery relationship with nature. Gods and dragons inhabited volcanoes, like Mount Damavand. At 5,600 meters, it is the highest peak in the Middle East, marking the border between the dry southern and the wet northern regions of Iran. The Alborz Mountains in the far north of the country are covered in deciduous woodlands that resemble those in Europe. It is home to Iran's oldest national

park, Golestan. [wild boars squealing] Wild boar noisily root around in the undergrowth. They are the ancestors of our domestic pigs. The sows with young are nervous. Benny takes care to keep some trees between himself and the animals. A mother with young will defend her family vigorously. A large male takes stock of Benny. Will it come to a showdown? Benny tries to remain calm. Wild boar do well in Iran. Eating pigs is forbidden under Islamic law and many Muslims will not even touch the animals

. Increasingly, the fearless pigs come into human settlements, raiding the fields and orchards. It's causing a growing conflict between animals and man. [boars squeal, camera clicks] With their natural predators such as wolves, leopards and lions almost gone, wild boar populations are on the increase. But there is one predator in these forests that will still take one of the young piglets, given the chance. The brown bear. The Alborz Mountains still hold up to a few dozens of bears... and most o

ther animals will give them a wide berth. The Persian brown bears are bigger and heavier than the European ones. But like their cousins, their forest habitat is rapidly disappearing, falling victim to illegal logging. The safety of the national park provides a last refuge for the bears. Iran's ancient forests remained untouched by the Ice Age. It was from here that the forests gradually spread northwards into Europe again. The green mountainsides are like gigantic sponges that gratefully soak up

the water from the clouds. Here, the mountain ranges of northern Iran give rise to numerous streams and rivers. Water is a precious resource in most parts of this hot and arid country. Not surprisingly, these secluded, cool spots are a favorite retreat. The lush green vegetation and fresh air are a welcome change for many city dwellers. This is the wettest region of Iran, creating a prehistoric Garden of Eden. There are a few places like this in Iran, so many travel from afar to relax in these

magical surroundings and enjoy the fruits and seeds of the forest. There is plenty of space for both humans and animals here. Brown bears avoid the visitors by retreating to the less accessible parts of the forest. They are naturally solitary creatures for most of the year, and only socialize to mate. No one is quite sure how many brown bears live in Iran, but what is certain is that their survival is wholly dependent upon the preservation of this pristine habitat. The forests of Golestan Nation

al Park are a favorite attraction. No other park is as lush and rich, the green trees and clear streams inviting visitors to stop and rest in Allah's Garden of Eden. The animals here have learned to give way to human visitors. But the visitors have learnt too. [motorbike engine starts] They leave the park and allow peace and quiet to return to the forest. [birds twittering] Now, Benny has the chance to take some photos. He gets out his hiding place. His plan is to try and blend into the forest.

Benny is looking for a particular and very shy big mammal. He needs to settle quickly and keep very quiet. It's a Caspian red deer, also known as maral, and it's spotted Benny! [camera clicks] [camera clicks] They were once hunted for their antlers that were used to make knife handles. Today, the remaining populations of red deer are protected and only found in pristine forests in the north of Iran. [camera clicks] Caspian red deer are larger than their European cousins. Nothing is wasted in nat

ure. Deer droppings are quickly found by dung beetles that shape them into small balls to lay their eggs in. There seems to be a dispute as to who owns this ball! [camera clicks] The adult deer, with their massive antlers, have no natural predators, but their fawns make easy prey for a forest hunter. The Persian leopard. Their main prey are young or weak wild boar and deer. Although leopards are normally solitary, pairs will sometimes remain together for short periods after mating. Persian leopa

rds are the largest of the species and they are lighter in color than their African cousins. Hunted for their beautiful spotted coats, these rare cats are now highly endangered. Iran's forests and mountains are one of their last strongholds. They contain an estimated 800 leopards. Benny has now built up an impressive library of images that prove the richness of the habitats he has visited. This is all useful material to help him present his case for protecting Iran's wildlife. I'm a wildlife pho

tographer, but sometimes it's better to take videos to show some problems or some issues with the movements in the pictures. So it's much better to make some problems understandable for the environmental protection issues with videos than with photographs. That's why I take sometimes videos. In Golestan, as in many national parks, human and animal living space can sometimes overlap, causing conflict. Benny notices that wild boar are coming into the tourist camp. The pigs are searching for scraps

of food and losing their natural fear of humans. And their young are quickly learning to copy this new way of life. Benny knows that this could pose problems for the park and the animals in the future. Benny also notices other problems facing the national park. [rattling] A new motorway is being built right through the middle of Golestan National Park - Asian Highway Number One. As a result, the river running through the valley has to be contained with high cement walls. It's hard to foresee wh

at effect this will have on the region's wildlife. Sadly, the demands of modern civilization take priority over the needs of the natural world. As you see, there is a wound in the national park and it's a genetic problem for some of the animals, because the animals on this side of the road can't have the contact with the animals on the other side of the road, so there is a wall between them. Benny hopes that by documenting his findings he can alert the government of Iran to the problems facing t

he park. [camera clicks] The last leg of Benny's journey takes him from Golestan to the far north of the country, to the banks of the Caspian Sea. This is the largest body of inland water in the world, even bigger than Benny's second home, Germany. The wrecks of rusting old fishing boats are the ghosts of once-thriving fisheries. Still today, fishermen's houses fringe the beach, but men like Korban Sharifi can only make a modest living from the trade. [Korban] Salaam-Alaikum! [they speak Farsi]

He guards the temporary village when the fishing season is over and most of his companions have left. [they speak Farsi] He tells Benny how much he likes living here, where land and water meet. The huts are built on stilts. Extreme storms with waves many meters high can rush inland, so the houses need to be elevated. The harsh climate here attracts only a few hardy people. Close to the fishing village, a scavenger is on the prowl. A jackal is searching for an easy meal washed up by the tide. The

jackal is a reminder of the past when wilder creatures inhabited this shoreline. Less than a hundred years ago, Caspian tigers still roamed these shores, preying on wild pig and deer in the surrounding forest. They were hunted to extinction, but there are now plans to reintroduce tigers to these parts once more. Benny knows that this fertile delta is likely to give him a chance for a few last photos of some impressive animals. Water buffalo - not rare but magnificent. [camera clicks] They are c

losely related to the endangered wild water buffalo from South-east Asia. Although these are domestic animals, the sturdy beasts are allowed to roam freely through the grassland and marches. They cope better with the humid climate here than any other cow. [buffalo grunts] The grassland as well benefits from the grazing and are rich in wildlife. [bird chattering] Buffalos are valuable livestock for the people, providing meat, milk and leather, whilst their dung is used as fertilizer. The calm lag

oons of the Caspian Sea attract migrant birds. Greater flamingos come to feed in its saline waters. [camera clicks] They're the largest but also the palest of the world's flamingos. They stir up the mud with their feet and use their specialized bills to filter small shrimps and algae out of the water. The flamingos come here each winter in their thousands. [camera clicks] The shores of the Caspian Sea are an important stopover site for these birds. The water depth and the salinity are perfect fo

r the algae and crustaceans they feed on. Pigments from these tiny creatures give the flamingo its pink color. If conditions change due to disturbance or pollution, these huge flocks could be a thing of the past. Benny is nearing the end of his six-week expedition. He has travelled 7,000 kilometers through Iran, yet seen only a fraction of this vast and little-known land. He has seen deserts, forests, rivers and lakes, all precious resources in an arid country. He has come face to face with the

needs of both man and wildlife to share these habitats. By the shores of the Caspian Sea, Benny takes time to evaluate what he has learnt on his return visit to his native country. He has captured some stunning images of wildlife and wild places and is encouraged by the richness of his findings and the affection of the people for their country's natural world. He has also written a report, which he plans to send to the Minister for the Environment. His mission is to add his voice to those of oth

ers trying to save Iran's remaining wildernesses. [Benny] I have already some connections in Iran. They try to do some, uh, projects for saving nature, what is left in the nature. And I hope that I can keep contact and work with these people to conserve what is left for the next generations. Iran. Benny is hopeful for the future of his country. Iran's secret wilderness is a mosaic of beautiful and contrasting habitats. It is a country where different continents collide to create an almost imposs

ibly rich diversity of animals, existing side by side. It is like nowhere else on Earth. A little-known world in danger of disappearing, even before it is discovered.