Hello! All of you are well acquainted with the AutoStrong company. And now get acquainted with our motorcycle brand "MotoStrong". We ourselves bring and choose motorcycles from Europe, we prefer bikes with a minimum mileage without an accident history and in excellent condition. All of our motorcycles are ready for rides and any test. Need a clean bike? Contact MotoStrong. Links and contacts in the description. In this review, we will tell you the widespread EP6 engine, which caused trouble, and
then, it seemed to be corrected and became better. EP6C, welcome! We talked about the 1.6-liter aspirated for Peugeot and Citroёn a few years ago and decided to return to it again. Rather, today we will analyze the updated version of this engine in the 2009 model year. This late version of the engine is known as the EP6C. This is the atmospheric version. Its turbo versions are designated as EP6CDT or EP6CDTX and other catalog indices. Literally any Peugeot and Citroёn, released since 2010 with
a 1.6-liter engine under the hood, is equipped with the EP6C unit. These are Peugeot 207, 208, 2008, 308, 408, 3008, 508 and 5008. Accordingly, we will see this engine under the hoods of the Citroen C3 (2nd generation), C3 Picasso, C4, C4 Grand Picasso, C5 and DS3, like this engine in front of you. This motor is found on Berlingo and Partner heels. Well, since this miracle was invented in very close cooperation with BMW, it can be found on the F20 “ones” and F30 “triples” under the designation N
13. And on Mini models, aspirated 1.6 is hidden under the N16 index. By the way, the EP6 engine, like the EP6F , is still being produced in a turbocharged version, including as part of a hybrid power plant. So, the updated 1.6-liter engine can be easily identified by the oil pressure sensor sticking out of the oil filter cup . On the original version of this engine , the oil pressure sensor is located at the rear in the cylinder head under the vacuum pump. This is for EP6 engines. The same motor
in the version for BMW differs significantly in attachments , because. designed for longitudinal installation. The Mini variant won't fit French cars either. The engine designation and number are stamped under the oil filter on the flywheel housing. The pre-styling EP6 motors here in the third line are designated PSA 5FW, and the updated ones are 5FS or, as in our case, 5F01. In general, the appearance of the EP6C engine was presented as a correction of all its inherent problems. But it is not
so. In fact, this update was needed only to bring the engine up to Euro-5 environmental standards and to unify production. In fact, no major improvements have been made to the design of this motor in order to increase reliability . For all the improvements, it is worth thanking the spot revisions of some components of this motor. By the way, the disassembled engine is damaged - it has serious problems in the 1st cylinder. The EP6C engine has a completely different oil pump: with two-stage oil pr
essure regulation. For control , a spool with a control solenoid is built into the oil pump . The wires to it are stretched through a hole in the crankshaft bed, under the intake manifold. This hole is sealed with a rubber bushing and covered with a metal cover. Oil leaks through these seals over time, but the leak can only be seen after the motor protection has been removed. Oil drains onto the lower engine mount. In some cases, oil is squeezed out along the wires, and then, due to the capillar
y effect, it rises through the same wires to the engine control unit. There were cases of ECU short circuit. To fix the leak, a bushing was offered for $20 and a repair kit with a section of wire from the solenoid to the connector on the main wiring for $60. To replace them, you will have to remove the pan in order to then replace the seal. On EP6 engines, both old and updated, the cooling system pump is driven through an intermediate roller suspended from a separate tensioner. In the people, th
is tensioner is called the "guitar". The tensioner presses the roller against the attachment belt on the crankshaft pulley and against the pump roller. By default, a passive tensioner (120456) is installed on pre-styling engines, which provides a constant pump drive. On restyled engines, that is, EP6C, a controlled “guitar” (120455) is installed by default. It is connected via an electrical connector, and the servo drive built into it is responsible for pulling up the roller . The most interesti
ng thing is that passive and active guitars are absolutely interchangeable. In our case, a passive tensioner turned out to be on the restyled motor. The active one will work on the old motor without connecting to the wiring, which is simply not there. The roller will be tightened thanks to the built-in clock spring. Both tensioners cost about the same: about $100. And for the money, they are equipped with a short-lived idler roller bearing. He barely nurses 50,000 km. Then , due to bearing wear,
the roller begins to rumble. A roller with a bearing is sold separately: a part from a good manufacturer costs about $50. Another “guitar” can rumble due to wear on the hinge along which the roller clip slides. In this case, you will have to buy a new tensioner. By the way, due to the skew of the roller on a worn hinge, the drive belt wears out quickly. It happens that when the belt breaks, it wraps under the crankshaft pulley and squeezes out the oil seal. Therefore, carefully monitor the cond
ition of the pump drive mechanism. As you already understood, progress has not touched this detail. When replacing the tensioner, be sure to feel the pump: it happens that it rotates silently, but the pulley play is already present. In this case, be sure to change it. A plastic turbo comes out of the back of the pump. With long runs, it dries up, then a leak appears along the fitting. Outwardly, there may be no damage or defects , so owners sometimes thickly coat the fitting with sealant for the
sake of economy. No improvement here either. Please note that the crankshaft pulley with a damper, that is, with a rubber layer. It lasts a long time, but the oil that gets on the pulley significantly reduces the life of the rubber damper. The pulley may break along the damper, that is, its outer part will be disconnected from the inner one. By the way, the front crankshaft seal of the EP6C engines on many engines has been changed more than once: they are rather weak and begin to flow literally
every 100,000 km. Since the EP6 engine in all versions does not use the services of a throttle, but relies mainly on the Valvetronic system, there is not enough vacuum in the intake manifold . Therefore, the vacuum system works on the basis of a vacuum pump. This pump often flows oil through the housing and at the junction with the cylinder head. Sometimes owners or servicemen break off its fitting. And the design of this pump is such that if the crankshaft and all the shafts connected to it tu
rn clockwise, the vacuum pump will jam. On this score, the instructions even have a remark: do not leave the car in gear if there is a risk of even a minimal rollback. After starting the EP6 engine with a jammed vacuum pump, the camshaft breaks off the pump drive flange. Since the EP6 engine in all versions does not use the services of a throttle, but relies mainly on the Valvetronic system, there is not enough vacuum in the intake manifold . Therefore, the vacuum system works on the basis of a
vacuum pump. This pump often flows oil through the housing and at the junction with the cylinder head. Sometimes owners or servicemen break off its fitting. And the design of this pump is such that if the crankshaft and all the shafts connected to it turn clockwise, the vacuum pump will jam. On this score, the instructions even have a remark: do not leave the car in gear if there is a risk of even a minimal rollback. After starting the EP6 engine with a jammed vacuum pump, the camshaft breaks of
f the pump drive flange. This all happens on the EP6C as well. Today Alexander will help us disassemble this updated EP6C . We meet! We begin our disassembly. In the cylinder head of EP6 engines, under the solenoid valve (or directly above the starter), there is a plug for Torx. This is a check valve that prevents the outflow of oil from the channel supplying oil to the phase shifters. If this valve is tightly clogged with burnt oil or fragments of the chain tensioners, then there will be proble
ms with oil pressure, there will be uneven idling and errors in the phase shifters. A new valve will cost $15. The valve cover of the EP6C engine is equipped with a crankcase ventilation separator and a spring-loaded rubber valve. Everything is like everyone else: over time, the rubber breaks, after which air enters the intake bypassing the flow meter. And in the same way, the engine begins to suck out oil vapors from under the valve cover. Updating the motor did not bring anything new in this m
atter either. The rubber membrane can be replaced with a non-original one, usually after that, traces of opening remain on the lid above it. The fasteners of the cover simply break off, so it is fastened by any suitable means. The valve cover sits on a rubber gasket, which eventually asks for replacement when it begins to leak oil. Under the valve cover of the EP6 engines are two camshafts, 16 valves and Valvetronic system mechanisms. We talked a lot about it using the example of BMW engines. Th
e bottom line is that thanks to the intermediate eccentric shaft and special levers, the lift height of the intake valves changes here. Thus , like a throttle, the filling of the cylinders is regulated. The Valvetronic system, from the worm gear to the eccentrics, as well as the camshafts of this engine, wear out quickly due to poor lubrication. All EP6s suffer from this, where the oil is changed at intervals of more than 10,000 km. From pollution in the oil, the operation of the phase shifters
and their control valves, which stick out in front of the sides of the cylinder head, is disrupted. In general, early EP6s went to landfill because of the huge service intervals - 20,000 km each. And the updated EP6C began to serve longer, primarily due to the fact that the oil change times were halved. Oil should be changed every 10,000 km. Now for the state. We do not observe a light oil coating and no wear on the camshaft cams. The timing chains on the ep 6 engine were updated without being t
ied to a global engine update, they survived several revisions and the hydraulic tensioner is considered that if the engine began to rumble with the chain after a cold start, then first of all it is necessary to change the hydraulic tensioner, it changes easily because there is access to it from outside the engine, a new hydraulic tensioner is necessary to put the last revision at a cost of $ 60, the timing chain itself costs $ 60 and must be installed on new guides, which are also inexpensive,
and the shoe that is located on the side of the exhaust camshaft was also updated Timing chains on EP6 engines were updated without reference to updating the engine as a whole. The hydraulic tensioner also survived several revisions . It is believed that if the engine began to rumble with a cold chain, then first of all it is necessary to install a new hydraulic tensioner of the latest revision. It changes simply, because. it is accessible from outside the engine. The hydraulic tensioner will co
st $60. The timing chain itself costs $60, but it should be installed on new guides, which are also inexpensive, and the shoe on the exhaust camshaft side has also been updated. Replacing the timing chain is not difficult, but a camshaft lock is required. The crankshaft is fixed through the flywheel. The timing chain is removed from the top of the front of the engine with all dampers and a star that fits on the crankshaft. This is a typical solution for BMW engines of those years. If the origina
l EP6 motor “pleased” the owners with the rumble of the timing chain already by a run of 50,000 km, then on the EP6C the timing chain takes care of more than 150,000 km. But this is only the merit of new chain revisions, which, of course, fit the original EP6 as well. If you look into the timing case, then there on the cylinder block you can see a plug-plug. It closes the hole in the engine cooling circuit. On all EP6C motors, there is still a risk of extruding this plug and leaking antifreeze i
nto the sump. Early EP6 motors from the factory had steel o -rings on the camshafts under the phase shifters. They gnawed grooves in the cylinder head, because of which it had to be replaced with a new one. This problem does not occur on the EP6C, because engineers proposed Teflon o-rings in 2010. Oil zhor is present on a decent number of EP6C engines, but as a rule, the owners themselves are to blame for this, severely saving on engine oil. However, the problem is not always only coked piston r
ings. Oil can enter the combustion chambers through valve stem seals, which let oil through the valve stems when cold. The engineers who created this motor took pity not so long ago and released improved caps, the kit can be bought for $55. Eh, why couldn’t it be possible to install suitable valve stem seals at the factory right away? EP6C engines continue to die due to falling valve seats. But this trouble occurs solely due to long-term overheating of the cylinder head. Note that the driver wil
l not see the real elevated temperature of the engine: even if the temperature of the antifreeze in the area of the temperature sensor jumps to 105 ° or more degrees, the arrow on the instrument panel will show normal 90 °. If the seat falls out completely, its valve will not close and will be hit by the piston. Often, the valve seats move minimally, as a result, their valves do not close tightly, and misfires appear in the cylinder. Misfires can only occur on a hot engine, and they will be
accompanied by a whistle of gases leaking through a loosely closed valve. There are times when the valve seats move minimally. Then the valves do not close tightly, misfires appear. Moreover, misfires can only appear on a warm engine. Let's evaluate the condition: this is EP6C, of course we see traces of oil burning. We have an even more interesting situation in the first cylinder: as if something had got here. We look into the first cylinder and see craters. It's like something got in here. T
he piston broke it. Our assumption is that most likely this was due to poor-quality repairs. The motor was quickly repaired, something was forgotten, assembled, started and bam. We remind you that in our showdowns, we dismantle motors that have not passed the strict quality control of AutoStrong. If we talk about the condition of the remaining cylinders, then there is practically no hone here and traces of the run are visible. The valve that regulates the performance of the oil pump by pressure
often fails. Normally, the pump continues to operate at the high capacity stage. You can find out about an oil pressure error only on diagnostics with a proprietary scanner. In this case, you will have to install a new oil pump control valve, it will cost $160. Before we tell all the most interesting, we ask you: do you like to laugh? If you like, then be sure to subscribe to our youtube channel "AutoStrong HaHaHa". Also, we just have killer content on TikTok, all links will be in the descriptio
n. Subscribe! We do it from the heart! The valve that regulates the performance of the oil pump by pressure often fails. Normally, the pump continues to operate at the high capacity stage. You can find out about an oil pressure error only on diagnostics with a proprietary scanner. In this case, you will have to install a new oil pump control valve, it will cost $160. If we talk about the state, then everything is fine. The main bearings look great, the crankshaft looks good. The crank bearings a
re fine too. The piston rings did not even lie down , but the oil scraper rings were slightly coked . The top bearings are also in good condition. Well, the disassembly is over. So is the EP6C motor more reliable? By and large, no significant improvements in its design appeared. The timing chain of the latest revision lasts a long time on both versions of this engine. The same can be said about the valve stem seals and thermostat. These motors equally successfully leak oil along the crankshaft o
il seal, from under the valve cover. In general, service this motor normally and change the oil more often. Well-groomed specimens take care of half a million kilometers. If you want us to keep doing such great reviews, then we need your support. Be sure to subscribe to our channel, click the bell, like this video, write a comment and share this video on social networks. Remember that the support of our channel is a plus of 500,000 kilometers to the resource of your car. The AutoStrong company h
as always been and will be with you.
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